Category Archives: Sliding Table Saw

Maple Trestle Table, Session 17 – Two Feet for Two Legs

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On the morning of Sunday, April 15th, Morton and I exchanged ideas about trestle tables, spurred on by a recent sketch of a table on which he was working.  That got me yearning to build a trestle table.

I documented my progress live on Twitter which was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.  Here is a list of the previous Sessions:

Session 1 - Flat Boards are Boring;
Session 2 - Playing with Slabs;
Session 3 - From Two Slabs to One Table Top;
Session 4 - Clamping Odd Shapes and Sketching on Wood;
Session 5 - Routing Pockets for Battens;
Session 6 - Making Battens and Installing Countertop Connectors;
Session 7 - Installing Battens and Flattening the Underside;
Session 8 - Make Your Tools Work for You and Flattening the Top;
Session 9 - Mortises the Slow Way (or Why I’m Buying a Domino XL);
Session 10 - Curvy Legs are Always Good;
Session 11 - Straight Lines on Wonky Surfaces;
Session 12 - Fitting the Mother of all Mortise & Tenon Joints;
Session 13 - Making Things Better, Worse, then Better;
Session 14 - Battens and Complicated Tenons, Again;
Session 15 - The Trestle Comes Together Session; and
Session 16 - Angled Mortises and Tenons.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks It’ll be a short session today – I just want to get the feet glued onto the legs. #flairww -12:55 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks But first I want to cut the reliefs in the underside of the feet. #flairww -12:56 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I set up a straight bit in my router table and marked start and stop lines on the fence. #flairww -1:12 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks This bit is not as long as the material is thick so I will finish the cut-out with a flush-trim bit. #flairww -1:17 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The profile cut of each foot is done so I’ll switch bits now. #flairww -1:20 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Ready to rout! The Triton router makes bit changes very simple. #flairww  -1:24 PM May 16th, 2012

TheBoisShop @FlairWoodworks Love that router. I’ve got two of them myself. -1:29 PM May 16th, 2012

Bryigdocious @FlairWoodworks hah, thats a ghetto router table! -1:39 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Unlike many woodworkers, I am more comfortable using hand-held routers than table-mounted routers. #flairww -1:40 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now I’m tuning the tenon shoulders for a tight fit between the foot and leg. #flairww -1:42 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks This foot is ready to be glued. #flairww -1:45 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks This foot gets really tight here. #flairww -1:49 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve tuned the tightness of the joint. Now I need to tune the shoulders. #flairww -1:52 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I start by flattening the top face of the foot. #flairww -1:56 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Sometimes reestablishing flat surfaces is all that is required! #flairww  -1:58 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks One end of this foot still shows the saw marks from when it was milled. #flairww -2:00 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I am going to taper the sides of the feet slightly from the mortise towards the narrow end. #flairww -2:12 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I could use the bandsaw but the tablesaw makes the cut easier to repeat for the other foot. #flairww -2:13 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The tablesaw doesn’t quite have enough capacity to complete the cut. I’ll use a handplane to finish. #flairww -2:17 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I used a chisel to remove the bulk of the waste before using a block plane to bring it flush. #flairww -2:23 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks One final dry fit with clamps before breaking out the glue. #flairww -2:25 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The first glue-up was easy. #flairww -2:34 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I drove in the wedges with alternating taps from my small steel hammer until I heard they were fully seated. #flairww -2:46 PM May 16th, 2012

FlairWoodworks That’s all for now! #flairww -2:49 PM May 16th, 2012

 With the base fully assembled, sculpting comes next!  What do you think of the project so far?  Let me know!

Maple Trestle Table, Session 11 – Straight Lines on Wonky Surfaces

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On the morning of Sunday, April 15th, Morton and I exchanged ideas about trestle tables, spurred on by a recent sketch of a table on which he was working.  That got me yearning to build a trestle table.

I documented my progress live on Twitter which was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.  Here is a list of the previous Sessions:

Session 1 - Flat Boards are Boring;
Session 2 - Playing with Slabs;
Session 3 - From Two Slabs to One Table Top;
Session 4 - Clamping Odd Shapes and Sketching on Wood;
Session 5 - Routing Pockets for Battens;
Session 6 - Making Battens and Installing Countertop Connectors;
Session 7 - Installing Battens and Flattening the Underside;
Session 8 - Make Your Tools Work for You and Flattening the Top;
Session 9 - Mortises the Slow Way (or Why I’m Buying a Domino XL); and
Session 10 - Curvy Legs are Always Good.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks I’m back in the shop at 11am sharp! Should I tackle this stretcher issue? #flairww -11:00 AM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I realized this morning that I’d made an error in laying out the angle of the legs. #flairww -11:23 AM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I had laid out the angle of the leg so that it would be centred at the bottom of the foot, not the top where it enters. #flairww -11:24 AM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks However, this means that the leg leans even more and does not make it any easier to join the stretcher. #flairww -11:25 AM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is turning into a mental challenge. Thankfully it does not involve numbers like @HalfInchShy’s project. #flairww-11:27 AM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here, the centre of the leg where it enters the foot is centred over its position on the batten. #flairww -11:33 AM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I spent an hour on the phone with my partner @GarthTW2 discussing some new products we’re planning. Back to the table now. #flairww-12:31 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The shaded area represents the space that would be occupied by the wide end of the stretcher. #flairww -12:47 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The other end is much smaller and should not be a problem. #flairww -12:47 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Of course, I’ll cut tenons on the stretcher so that I don’t need to remove so much material from the leg. #flairww -12:48 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m confident that this angle for the legs will work so I’m going to go make the cut. Again, I’ll use my sliding table saw. #flairww -12:55 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m ready to make the cut. The slider guarantees the cuts will be in a straight line. #flairww -1:00 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here’s the completed cut. I will cut the other end later. #flairww -1:01 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks While I’m thinking about what to do next for this leg, I’ll lay out and cut the angle of the other leg. #flairww -1:06 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks By the way, I’m making this table 43″ tall. #flairww -1:09 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks No I’m not. I’m making the table 29″ tall. I just wanted to see if anybody was paying attention. #flairww -1:10 PM May 2nd, 2012

LornaBourke @FlairWoodworks Chris, I’m following but I didn’t catch the start so I didn’t know how tall the table is #youarenotalone #flairww -1:15 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @LornaBourke Well, 43″ would be a very tall table. It would be unusual to say the least. Thanks for following! #flairww -1:17 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Both legs are now cut! #flairww -1:19 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I had left one part of the leg thicker to allow some sculpting, but it’s a problem now. #flairww -1:22 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks PS: Like my workbench? Working on the ground, Japanese-style. #flairww -1:22 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Before planing the face, I wrapped the layout lines over to the edges to preserve them. #flairww -1:26 PM May 2nd, 2012

Morton @FlairWoodworks 29″ high is what my current dining table project is going to be also. -1:28 PM May 2nd, 2012

luggermatt @FlairWoodworks I spend half my time working on the ground! It saves picking stuff up.. ;-) -1:30 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I don’t like it so far. #flairww RT @luggermatt:@FlairWoodworks I spend half my time working on the ground! It saves picking stuff up.. ;-) -1:32 PM May 2nd, 2012

luggermatt @FlairWoodworks When the timber you’re working with is 15ft lengths of 2″x8″ oak it’s easier. Move the machine to it too ;-) -1:32 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @luggermatt Well, yeah. -1:32 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks There – it’s leveled. Not my idea of fun… #flairww -1:42 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now I need to re-establish my layout lines. #flairww -1:43 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m working on how to position the stretcher. Here, the midpoint of each end is at the same height. #flairww -1:59 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Note that about 10″ will be cut off of the left side. #flairww -1:59 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m standing back and having a drink of water while I analyze the stretcher’s positioning. Should I make one end higher? #flairww -2:00 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I have longer and shorter levels but the 2′ level gets the most use. An 18″ level might be nice. #flairww -2:04 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve decided to go forwards with the balanced positioning of the stretcher. I used the level to mark plumb lines on each end. #flairww -2:05 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks If my shop were wide enough, I could crosscut the stretcher with my sliding table saw. #flairww -2:09 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Since my shop is not that wide, my options include my compound mitre saw, jigsaw, or handsaw. #flairww -2:09 PM May 2nd, 2012

BourbonCremeBot RT @FlairWoodworks I sure could use a Bourbon Creme about now #flairww -2:14 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m opting to use the jigsaw. I clamped a piece of plywood to the top of the stretcher. #flairww -2:21 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The plywood provides a smooth, even surface on which the jigsaw can ride without getting caught. #flairww -2:22 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The trouble with non-flat stock is that it always wants to move. You have to secure it really well. #flairww -2:23 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Well, that certainly wasn’t the best cut I’ve ever done. But it’s good enough since it will be trimmed later. #flairww -2:27 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks So… how do I cut parallel tenons on either end of a long, non-flat, curved, stretcher? #flairww -2:29 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I know I can figure out a way to cut the tenons, but if you have an idea, I’m listening! #flairww -2:30 PM May 2nd, 2012

msnodgrass2 @FlairWoodworks would snapping chalk lines help? I didn’t see the stretcher -2:33 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I don’t think so. #flairww RT@msnodgrass2: @FlairWoodworks would snapping chalk lines help? I didn’t see the stretcher -2:34 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @msnodgrass2 It’s more the general wonkiness, rather than the curve that makes it difficult. #flairww -2:35 PM May 2nd, 2012

kring_l @FlairWoodworks long semi flexible strait edge for the face but not sure 4 the ends -2:36 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Would that make it semi-straight? #flairww RT @kring_l:@FlairWoodworks long semi flexible strait edge for the face but not sure 4 the ends -2:38 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The positioning of my saw horses indicates that my shop may be a little crowded. #flairww -2:39 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks My winding sticks show the twist in the stretcher from one end to the other. #flairww -2:43 PM May 2nd, 2012

kring_l @flairwoodworks no the edge stays strait the face can bow I use a 4 foot aluminum ruler type strait edge -2:45 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Gotcha. #flairww RT @kring_l: no the edge stays strait the face can bow I use a 4 foot aluminum ruler type strait edge -2:45 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I realized that the twist could help me if it twisted in the right direction. But it doesn’t. #flairww -2:49 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m using the short fence on my table saw to crosscut parts for my tenoning jig to a consistent length. #flairww -2:59 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve marked the direction of grain runout on the jig parts. In this direction, the wood planes cleanly. #flairww -3:04 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I like to assemble my jigs with screws so I can later take them apart and reuse the parts. #flairww -3:19 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks (Have you ever seen an uglier jig?) #flairww -3:19 PM May 2nd, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks That doesn’t look bad at all! Put a flair mark on it :) #flairww -3:23 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Yuk yuk yuk! RT @HalfInchShy: @FlairWoodworks That doesn’t look bad at all! Put a flair mark on it :) #flairww -3:23 PM May 2nd, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks The one from the Ceros demo #flairww -3:24 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I jointed the edge of the jig square to the face. The jig is now done. #flairww -3:24 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy I don’t follow… #flairww -3:24 PM May 2nd, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks In ur Ceros sanding demo, u made a flair mark to be sanded; add 2 here to make it moe betta (asymmetrical of course #flairww -3:25 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy Good call. It looks much better now. #flairww -3:28 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks With the jig clamped to the stretcher, I now have parallel reference surfaces on each side. #flairww -3:29 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Okay – lunch time! #flairww -3:30 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Darn it… somebody tracked sawdust into the house again. Hey – don’t look at me! #flairww -3:33 PM May 2nd, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks my 24″ level sees the most time too. -4:33 PM May 2nd, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks mark 1 w/ a level. Go across w/ a straight edge, adjust height as desired & level the 2nd one. -4:40 PM May 2nd, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks Bet you could go for some Bourbon Cream right about now… #flairww -4:46 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m back in the shop and I’ll set up to rout the first tenon. #Woodchat starts in 20 minutes. #flairww -5:40 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks There is no way I’ll be able to rout the full length of the tenons without a wider router baseplate. #flairww -5:45 PM May 2nd, 2012

bourboncreambot RT @HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks Bet you could go for some Bourbon Cream right about now… #flairww -5:46 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Rather than make an offset router baseplate, I’m going to use a router attached to a table insert. #flairww -5:48 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks That’s right, @HalfInchShy - I don’t mess around! #flairww -5:48 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve got the jig set up and router bit installed. Next, I need to figure out how deep to set the bit. #flairww -5:56 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks How do these proportions look? When dealing with large tenons, I leave the tenon a bit thicker than 1/3. #flairww -6:01 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Time for #woodchat. Feel free to join in on Twitter! I’ll resume the project in one hour. #flairww -6:01 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Ok, #woodchat crew. I need to go rout some tenons with my inverted router table. #flairww -6:59 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I did what I could with my routers (more router frustrations). I’ll do the rest by hand. #flairww -7:37 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks You want a challenge? Clamp this stretcher solidly! #flairww -8:00 PM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ll finish fine-tuning the first tenon after dinner. #flairww -8:05 PM May 2nd, 2012

Hey – the next day is “after dinner” too.

While you’re waiting for me to return from my dinner break, please leave a comment.

Benefits of a Sliding Table Saw

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In Session 6 of the ongoing Maple Trestle Table build, I needed to cut two stretchers from a slab of maple and my sliding table saw was the best tool for the job.  Note that I used a riving knife for every cut.

Crosscut Fence

I first crosscut the slab to length using the crosscut fence and outrigger for support.  The crosscut fence, which was much longer and more solid than a mitre gauge, was secured to the outrigger and sliding table.  The workpiece sat directly on the outrigger and sliding table so I didn’t lose any depth of cut.  Together, the slab, sliding table, outrigger and crosscut fence glided past the blade on ball bearings.

Straight-Line Ripping

Once the stock was cut to length, I turned it length-wise to rip one edge straight.  I butted one end against the back of the crosscut fence and positioned a cam-action hold-down at the other end.  I positioned the workpiece where I thought it needed to be to rip a clean, straight edge (I could have also measured to be more accurate).  Then I secured the slab with the hold-down and pushed the sliding table and slab through the blade.  Because the slab wasn’t perfectly flat, I also applied downward pressure to the forward end.

Short Fence

With one straight edge established, I then needed to rip two pieces of the same width.  I positioned the rip fence the appropriate distance from the blade and retracted the fence to the short fence position.  In this position, the fence terminated where (or slightly before) the stock was parted by the blade.  This way, the material was never trapped between the blade and fence which could cause burning, binding, and/or kickback.

I recorded the whole process, including set-up, in this video.  (Duration – 6:11)

This movie requires Adobe Flash for playback.

Thanks for reading!  I would appreciate it if you left a comment.

Maple Slab Build, Session 2

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Friday night, I went to down the shop because I wanted to build something.  I started with a small slab of Western maple and designed the piece on the fly.  I documented the build live on Twitter and what you see below are the updates from the second session (see what I did in the first session here).  This was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks Back at it looking for materials for the table’s base. I like how this piece splits and rejoins. #flairww -1:04 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I need my sawhorses, but unfortunately, they’re being used to hold some special maple. A little help? #flairww -1:07 PM Apr 7th, 2012

ChrisHasFlair I create. Follow along with #flairww. -1:09 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here’s another angle of the split. It is connected at both ends.#flairww -1:10 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Unfortunately, this fantastic piece with the split is a few inches wider than the top. That won’t do. #flairww -1:14 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I could skew the legs a bit so that their width fits completely under the top, but I’m not sure I like that idea. #flairww -1:15 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I could also just have the legs stick out beyond the edges of the table top but I don’t like that idea. #flairww -1:15 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now I’m thinking about a very simple, clean stick-form base. Think Krenov cabinet stand. #flairww. -1:17 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here are some of my choices for base materials. The bottom piece is live-edge maple, the rest are birch. #flairww -1:33 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I have to start thinking about how high I want this table to be. (I still think it’s going to be a table.) #flairww -1:34 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I like the contrast provided by the two boards on the right. However, the far right board has too much figure for legs. #flairww -1:40 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I mark the areas on both sides that are unacceptable. That helps me realize how much material I really have. #flairww -1:47 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks From the board, I milled these four pieces. They are about 1-1/4″ square (the size doesn’t really matter). #flairww -2:12 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks From these four pieces, I will cut 4 legs, 2 short stretchers and 1 long stretcher. Or maybe 4 legs and 4 short stretchers. #flairww -2:13 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Is anybody following along right now? #flairww -2:14 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Huh. Upon closer examination, I can get 4 legs, 4 short stretchers and 1 long stretcher! #flairww -2:16 PM Apr 7th, 2012

sharpendwood Yep! RT @FlairWoodworks Is anybody following along right now? #flairww -2:22 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks My next step is to determine what I will use for joinery.#flairww -2:22 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Awesome! What are your thougths so far? RT@sharpendwood: Yep! RT @FlairWoodworks Is anybody following along right now? #flairww -2:23 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Have you ever had your planer leave a high spot? I haven’t until now! #flairww -2:26 PM Apr 7th, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks let the split dictate the shape.. play off of that -2:25 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster I decided that piece wasn’t suitable for this table. It deserves to be the centerpiece, not just a set of legs. #flairww -2:27 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks 18″ is the standard height for a coffee table. Should I follow that rule? #flairww -2:31 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Excuse me while I go sit on the couch and ponder that last question. #flairww #WorkIsTough -2:32 PM Apr 7th, 2012

sharpendwood @FlairWoodworks Liking it. Are you adding any curves to the legs? -2:32 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @sharpendwood So far they are straight. I’ll do all the joinery while they’re straight, but once assembled I can go crazy. #flairww -2:33 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Couches are getting taller and taller. 18″ seems a little low so I’m going to make my table 20″ high. Or should I make it 21″ high? #flairww-2:35 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The top’s just over 2″ thick so I’m going to cut the legs 19″ long. I can always recut them later. #flairww -2:37 PM Apr 7th, 2012

Morton @FlairWoodworks domino for joinery :) #flairww -2:42 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Rift-sawn material is ideal for legs because it exhibits vertical grain on all four sides. #flairww -2:42 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks You read my mind! Yes, I’ll be using 10mm x 50mm Dominoes for joinery. RT @Morton: @FlairWoodworks domino for joinery :)#flairww -2:43 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Before I get to joinery, I need to cut the short stretchers. One end of the table is 9-1/2″ wide, the other 11″. #flairww -2:45 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I use a short fence as a stop to accurately cut the stretches to length. (I’ve never liked mitre gauges!) #flairww -2:53 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m trying to figure out how to register the Domino to cut joinery on 1-1/4″ square stock. Wish I had these: #flairww -3:02 PM Apr 7th, 2012

ChrisHasFlair I think I’ll just use pencil marks and line it up manually. Unless someone has a better idea… #flairww -3:03 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here’s my test piece with two 8mm mortises 25mm deep. I readjusted to have the mortises better centered. #flairww -3:13 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks It is difficult to balance the Domino joiner on a single leg so I use the others for additional support. #flairww -3:33 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I checked that had cut all the lower mortises before adjusting the Domino Joiner to cut the upper mortises. #flairww -3:40 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Clear the bench for a glue-up! #flairww -3:50 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks One side glued up… #flairww -4:03 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Both glue-ups are done. Now I need to get ready to go to dinner. I might be back in the shop tonight. #flairww -4:10 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m actually going for dinner with my friend, Dave, who milled the wood so I thought I should get a picture. #flairww -4:22 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The stretcher would at least be cut shorter. Or I may use something completely different for the stretcher. Or make it a shelf. #flairww-4:23 PM Apr 7th, 2012

Morton @FlairWoodworks Do something different. Use a bent or live-edge piece, vertical or horizontal. Keep it fun!-5:17 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m back in the shop fitting the legs. I used a pencil to transfer the shape of the top to the legs. #flairww -10:52 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks A bevel along the top edge of the leg assemblies disguises any minor variances. #flairww -11:34 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I should have drilled this hole with the drill press before assembly. It would have been easier. #flairww -11:40 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The manual countersink doesn’t work as quickly or as well as a drill-powered one, but I still like using it. #flairww -11:46 PM Apr 7th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m not quite happy with this stretcher. It feels lacking. It’s the last component (and therefore the next step) so now I must think. #flairww -12:44 AM Apr 8th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Hmm… this has potential. It’s a form I used to laminate curved arms for a Morris chair I built in grade 11. #flairww -12:56 AM Apr 8th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here is the stretcher I’ve started. Tomorrow, I’ll pillow the ends and install it. #flairww -1:19 AM Apr 8th, 2012

Sc0FF @FlairWoodworks did you fill the check in the top or is the picture playing tricks on me? #flairww -5:14 AM Apr 8th, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks looking good. The pics make it look tall. You said 21″ right? Looks like 36″ in the pics -5:32 AM Apr 8th, 2012

FlairWoodworks No, it’s just the picture. RT @Sc0FF: @FlairWoodworks did you fill the check in the top or is the picture playing tricks on me? #flairww -10:24 AM Apr 8th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Yes, 21″ tall. RT @BCcraftmaster: @FlairWoodworks looking good. The pics make it look tall. You said 21″ right? Looks like 36″ in the pics-10:25 AM Apr 8th, 2012

FlairWoodworks A great comment on the tabletop: http://t.co/R8aIJx7k#flairww -12:00 PM Apr 8th, 2012

Session 3 starts with shaping of the stretcher.

Flat-Top Ripping Blade is King

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Freud’s 24-tooth Heavy Duty Rip Blade (LM72M010) is what is installed in my table saw 90% of the time.  The blade has 24 teeth 0.126″ wide, ground flat on the top and pitched forwards at 20 degrees.  These characteristics make it the most versatile and most used saw blade in my shop.

Heavy Duty Rip Blade - Technical Specifications (from FreudTools.com) K= Kerf; P= Plate Thickness

As you would expect, this blade excels at ripping.  The 20-degree forward (positive) hook angle makes feeding stock past the blade easier and the blade leaves two clean surfaces requiring little, if any, further clean-up.  This blade also does a formidable job with cross-cuts too, especially when freshly sharpened.  (When I need a super-clean crosscut, I take the time to switch to a dedicated crosscut blade.)

For a 10″ circular saw, 24 teeth is not very many (they may have as few as four or as many as 90).  Having few teeth allows quicker, more aggressive cutting.  The trade-off is that the blade will tend to leave a rougher cut than a blade with more teeth.  In some cases, using a slower feed rate increases the quality of cut.  In other cases it only causes burning.

Freud Heavy Duty Rip Blade

The flat-top blade is useful for joinery.  Non-through cuts have square shoulders and flat bottoms, making cleanup unnecessary.  The blade has a regular kerf that is 0.126″ wide, just a little over 1/8″ (1/8″=0.125″).  This is 20% thicker than a thin-kerf blade which typically removes 3/32″ (0.09375″).  While a thicker kerf means it turns more wood into sawdust and requires more power to spin, it also means that only three passes are required to cut a 3/8″ wide groove versus four with a thin-kerf blade.

In addition to making joinery more convenient to cut, set-up is also quicker and easier.  Because each tooth is the same, the top or edge of any tooth can be referenced for accurate set-ups.  Another benefit to the tooth shape, which distributes the cutting duty over a wider surface, is that the teeth are also very durable and as a result, I need to have the blade sharpened less often.

There is a lot more information on saw blades on the Carbide Processors Inc. website.

My Tall Workbench with Flair

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This bench was inspired after the Joinery Bench that Shannon Rogers brought to Woodworking in America.  It was intended to simply be a taller workbench and I honestly did not know how useful I would find it (ask me in half a year).

This small bench was built taller than normal to allow joinery to be cut at a more comfortable height – no more bending over to see your scribe lines.  I built the base using drawbored mortise and tenon joinery.  The bench was made of Western maple.

Tall Workbench Assembled

All the joints were drawbored mortise and tenons.  I used my drill press and chisels to cut the mortises and cut the tenons with my bandsaw and tuned them with my shoulder plane and chisels.

Mortise and Tenon

In this video, I demonstrated how I shaped and installed drawbore pegs while discussing why drawbored mortise and tenon joints are effective.  Listen how the sound changes as the peg encounters the offset hole in the stretcher’s tenon.  (Duration:  1:27.)

To keep the build simple, I only did what was necessary.  The faces of the legs were left rough-sawn and the back of the bench top still bears a live edge.  The bench top was attached to the base with four lag bolts in oversized holes to allow for expansion.  No glue was used.

In this second video, I showed how I used my sliding table saw to straighten one edge, then crosscut the two adjacent edges square.  (Duration:  3:09.)

The bench itself required 13 hours to construct and the Moxon Vise with Flair required another two hours.

Tall Workbench

What do you think of my 13-hour Tall Workbench with Flair?

Quite a few other bloggers are documenting (or have documented) the building of their workbenches.  You can read about their benches by following these links:

(If I have missed your bench build, please leave a link in the comments section.)

Small Ash Side Table

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At 11:45 am on Saturday, December 17, I decided that I would make a small table as a Christmas gift.  I documented my process live on Twitter and what you see below are the updates.  This was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, the @ symbol indicates a username.  Every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username and they are the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you will see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are people the author is talking to.  The other symbol you will see is #, which serves as a category.  I tried to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

Saturday, December 17:  5-1/2 hours

  • @FlairWoodworks: I’m going to try to design and build a table today, starting right now. Follow along with hash tag #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:48 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: The first step will be to find some cool wood. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:48 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: This odd piece looks to be the right height for legs. I’m thinking pedestal. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:51 am
  • @gvmcmillan: @FlairWoodworks Good luck cutting that safely!
    December 17, 2011, 11:54 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: Smoothing the power-carved surfaces with a hand plane.
    December 17, 2011, 12:24 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I’d like to use this piece for the base and top of the table. #flairww (I later changed my mind and used the part marked “BASE” for the top and vise-versa.)
    December 17, 2011, 12:46 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: You didn’t think this was going to be just another table, did you? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 12:48 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I cut a clean surface on the end of the leg with my sliding tablesaw. How would you do this? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:07 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks I’d have done something similar with my Excalibur sliding table. #Flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:15 pm
  • @BobbyHagstrom: @FlairWoodworks Probably with a sled as I don’t have a sliding T-saw :( hehe… I’ve done stuff like that freehand-lots o’ clean up #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:20 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I need to glue two pieces together to make a wide, more stable base. Note the chalk alignment lines.
    December 17, 2011, 1:32 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks Nice grain alignment. #Flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:37 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Come on, glue. Hurry up and dry! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:48 pm
  • @MansFineFurn: @FlairWoodworks ash?
    December 17, 2011, 1:51 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @MansFineFurn Ash!
    December 17, 2011, 1:51 pm
  • @gvmcmillan: @FlairWoodworks Without a sliding table saw, I would have used my compound miter chop saw. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lunchtime! The glue ought to be dry enough to continue work when I return. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 2:21 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Any questions so far? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 2:24 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lunch is done and the glue dry enough to flatten the table’s base.
    December 17, 2011, 3:03 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I need to cut a notch in the upright (leg) to receive the top. This is probably the most challenging part.
    December 17, 2011, 3:48 pm
  • @MansFineFurn: @FlairWoodworks are you winging it or do you have a design?
    December 17, 2011, 3:51 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: With a saw cut to establish each shoulder, I use a chisel and mallet to clear the waste.
    December 17, 2011, 3:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @MansFineFurn I’m designing it as I build. This is fun! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 3:54 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I used my side rabbet plane to clean up the sawed surfaces and adjust the angle.
    December 17, 2011, 4:00 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: That’s a good fit! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 4:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here’s the other side of the joint. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 4:13 pm
  • @TheGravedigger: @FlairWoodworks That did well.
    December 17, 2011, 4:14 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The top looks too thick so I’m going to taper it out towards the edge. I tilted my bandsaw table for this cut.
    December 17, 2011, 4:22 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The bandsawn surface is pretty flat. The burn marks are from when I hesitated feeding the board.
    December 17, 2011, 4:25 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: A few minutes with a handplane removed the milling and burn marks and reestablished a flat top.
    December 17, 2011, 4:28 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The upright is secured to the upright with a pair of long lag bolts.
    December 17, 2011, 4:43 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Sorry I’ve been forgetting to add the #flairww tag.
    December 17, 2011, 4:44 pm
  • @sharpendwood: @FlairWoodworks Cool idea, enjoying watching your progress.
    December 17, 2011, 4:57 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @sharpendwood Well, sculpting is the next step. I will wait until daylight before using my angle grinder to carve the upright. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 5:13 pm

Sunday December 18:  3-1/2 hours

  • @FlairWoodworks: After I finish lunch, I’ll be back in the shop working on the table I started yesterday. Follow along with #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 11:55 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: I’m using my angle grinder to sculpt the table’s upright. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 12:20 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Smoothing out the rough-carved surface is going quickly with 80-grit on my Mirka CEROS random orbit sander.
    December 18, 2011, 8:44 pm
  • @ArtsConnectBC: RT @flairwoodworks: After I finish lunch, I’ll be back in the shop working on the table I started yesterday. Follow along with #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 1:02 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Preliminary sanding with 80-grit is done. Now on to fine grits. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 1:02 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The upright has been sanded to 180-grit. I’ll finish sand the top now.
    December 18, 2011, 9:21 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here’s the table assembled. I just need to shape the base. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 2:01 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks Right, Chris. I look forward to *yours*, though. I like what I see, but cannot imagine what the hole’s function is.
    December 18, 2011, 2:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @woodbard hole? You mean the pencil holder? :) (It’s actually just a knot hole.)
    December 18, 2011, 2:13 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks I knew the hole would be a critical part of that table. Thanks!
    December 18, 2011, 2:23 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks Pretty darn cool, Chris!!
    December 18, 2011, 2:29 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: In classic Chris fashion, I carved the edges of the base to follow the grain. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 2:43 pm
  • @DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks looks good, Chris.
    December 18, 2011, 10:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I plugged the screw holes. Can you see them? #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:06 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks Juuuussssttt barely, and ONLY with image blown up,Chris. Wonderful job matching the grain with the plugs!!! #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:09 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Time for a final inspection before the application of the finish. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:11 pm
  • @JC_McGrath: @FlairWoodworks barely for sure, excellent match
    December 18, 2011, 3:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here is the table with one coat of lacquer. I’ll give it a light sanding followed by a couple more coats. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:27 pm
  • @ed_elizondo: @FlairWoodworks That durn good work.
    December 18, 2011, 3:31 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lacquer and shellac are my two preferences when I need a quick-drying finish. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:31 pm
  • @DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks just faintly. Would have missed them if I wasn’t specifically looking. Well done.
    December 18, 2011, 3:52 pm
  • @HighRockWW: @FlairWoodworks cool table Chris, I like it.
    December 19, 2011, 4:37 pm
  • @Tooltutor: @FlairWoodworks that’s a sweet table! Can’t even see the plugs.
    December 19, 2011, 6:38 pm

Some Pictures of the Completed Table

Your Feedback is Appreciated!

What did you think of this Tweet Along?  Would you like to see more?  Please leave your thoughts about the project, process, and method of documentation below in the comments section.

Why Not a SawStop?

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First of all, if you are not familiar with SawStop technology you should look into it.  Basically, the saw detects when the blade comes in contact with something conductive such as your finger.  When that happens, the aluminum brake is rammed into the blade stopping the blade’s rotation, saving your fingers.  This video shows how it works and you can find additional information, including the owner’s manuals, on the SawStop website.

This seems like a logical follow up to my last post about my sliding table saw which cost about the same amount as a SawStop Professional (the Contractor model is less; the Industrial is more).  When I decided to replace my under-powered contractor’s saw, the SawStop was the other saw at which I was looking.  I use a SawStop Industrial table saw at the Lee Valley Tools Ltd. shop where I work part-time so I have first-hand experience with their machines.  They are nicely built and there are many reasons to buy a SawStop:

  1. Peace of mind.  I am the only user of my table saw in my own shop and I trust myself to make smart, safe decisions.  I am comfortable with the saw and understand how to use it safely.  However, if I had someone else using the saw, regardless of their experience, I would feel badly if they had an accident.  For that reason, I am the only one who uses my saw.  If I had others using my saw, I would seriously reconsider investing in a SawStop.
    In writing this, I do not mean to say that I am immune to accidents.  I am not.  In a moment where I am not thinking, the SawStop could well be the difference between losing a finger or not;
  2. Excellent dust collection capabilities, especially when using the blade guard;
  3. The owner’s manual is very clear and well-written.  It is riddled with large, quality pictures.  The manual for the SawStop Industrial Cabinet Saw consists of 104 pages and is coil bound.  There is a separate manual for the fence system;
  4. Adjustments.  The SawStop Industrial Cabinet Saw allows you to adjust more than the 45- and 90-degree bevel stops.  You can also fine-tune the amount of backlash in the adjustments, elevation limit stops, and more.  There are 21 pages dedicated to adjustments in the Industrial Cabinet Saw manual;
  5. Changing between the riving knife (or spreader, as the manual calls it) with blade guard and low profile riving knife (sometimes called a “shark fin”) is quick, easy, and requires no tools; and
  6. They are well-made.  All the machining is fine and you won’t find any cheap plastic components anywhere.  The handwheels are particularly nice.

Ultimately, a number of factors led to my decision to go with the European-style sliding table saw.  Here is a list of things that helped me decide:

  1. The biggest, of course, was the sliding table.  When I bought my saw, I commented that if SawStop made a sliding table saw, I would buy it.  The sliding table makes wide crosscuts easy and provides ample support for large panels without the need for roller stands;
  2. Though sheet goods are not my favourite, the scoring blade is a useful accessory.  SawStop does not offer a saw with one;
  3. My previous table saw was equipped with a Unifence which I’d gotten use to after learning on a Biesemeyer fence.  The two black knobs on the right side of the body can be loosened, allowing the aluminum fence to be slid forwards or backwards.  This is useful for repetitive crosscuts, as a short fence, or to allow long crosscuts without losing the rip fence’s positioning.

    Delta Unifence

    Fences on European saws are similar to the Unifence in appearance and operation, but may vary in how its position is read.  Rather than the hairline cursors we North Americans are familiar with, some European fences are read directly off the face of the fence.  This is not necessarily better – just different.  You have to make sure you are sighting directly down the fence for an accurate reading.  If you have an auxillary or sacrificial fence installed, you don’t need to factor in its thickness;
    I prefer the type of fence that can be slid forwards and backwards along the body.  The SawStop comes with one of two models of two T-fences.  Of course, you could always retrofit the SawStop with an aftermarket fence.

    Reading the Position of a European Fence

  4. SawStop table saws tilt left.  Right-tilting arbors are not available.  I much prefer a right-tilt saw for the one reason that the arbor flange is on the right side of the blade.  This means that when you put a dado stack on the saw, the additional blades are built away from the fence so the fence’s scale remains accurate.  The opposite is true for a left-tilt saw;
  5. Separate brake cartridges must be purchased for 8″ dado blades.  There is no brake cartridge available for other sized dado blades;
  6. With the exception of 8″ dado stacks, blades other than 10″ may not be used.  I sometimes find a 7-1/4″ blade from a circular saw really useful because they have a thinner kerf.  It’s not often when I need to make a very thin groove, but when I do, a circular saw blade usually does the trick.  They are also cheaper so I am not hesitant to cut dirty lumber with them;
  7. The brake must be checked and set for the proper distance to the blade.  All 10″ blades are not the same.  Sharpenings can have an effect on the size of the blade so if you have a brand new crosscut blade and a thrice-sharpened rip blade, you may need to adjust the brake when switching blades;
  8. When the SawStop’s main power switch is turned on, the saw must do self-diagnostics which takes about 5-10 seconds.  This switch does not need to be turned off every time the saw is turned off;

    Photo from SawStop Manual

  9. The SawStop’s paddle switch used to start and stop the blade just like on a regular saw is easy to bump into accidently.  I have no issue with that.  However, unlike conventional saws, if the SawStop’s switch is bumped off it cannot be turned back on until the blade has come to a stop.  I find that to be a nuisance; and
  10. The SawStop cannot be run without a brake cartridge installed.  If you don’t have a spare, you can’t use the saw.

While researching for this article I learned someting about the saw that surprised me:  in most cases, nails and staples are not large enough to trigger the brake.  However, if the nail or staple is grounded (in contact) with a larger conductive body such as a metal miter gauge, table top, or your fingers, the brake will be triggered.

And according to the website, counter to what seems to be the “general knowledge” most wet or green lumber can be cut on the SawStop without overriding the safety feature.  The SawStop website states that “if the wood is very green or wet (for example, wet enough to spray a mist when cutting), or if the wood is both wet and pressure treated, then the wood may be sufficiently conductive to trigger the brake.”  If you have material this wet, you can either set it aside for a day or so to dry out or set the saw in bypass mode to disable the brake.  By the way, you cannot run the saw in bypass mode without a brake installed.

The brake cartridges record information about an accident.  If the accident involved contact with skin, send the cartridge back to SawStop and they will send you a new one free of charge.  When the brake fires, usually one or two teeth are damaged.  The blade can be either repaired by a blade sharpening service or replaced.  Your choice will likely be dependant on the cost of the blade.

It’s important to note also that the SawStop brake alone does not make for a safe table saw.  Kickback is still a threat, though the included riving knives go a long way to prevent that.  As advanced as table saw safety has come, there is still no substitute for training, experience, good judgement and alertness.

Why a Sliding Table Saw with Scoring Blade?

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Most hobbyist woodworkers are impressed when they see my saw.  It’s a big piece of machinery, especially with the 5′ sliding table and outrigger.  And for many of them, it’s something they’ve never seen, or even imagined before.

When I tell someone who has seen this type of machine before, they nod in approval and assume that I work with a lot of sheet goods.  That’s a fair guess, as the saw does excel at cutting up plywood.

If you’ve ever tried to break down a sheet of plywood on a table saw, you’ll fully understand the benefits of a sliding table saw.  When ripping, instead of fighting the plywood across the saw, trying to maintain an even feed rate while keeping the edge against the fence and struggling to support it throughout the cut, it’s a simple matter of loading the plywood onto the sliding table, setting it against the fence, and pushing the plywood and sliding table past the blade.  It’s almost effortless.  Need a 4′ wide sheet cross-cut?  No problem.  Set the plywood against the cross-cut fence and push it through.  Here’s a short demonstration of breaking down a sheet of plywood.

The sliding table is half of why this type of saw excels at working with sheet goods.  The scoring blade is the other half.  A scoring blade is a small blade located in front of the main blade.  It cuts a kerf slightly wider than the main blade and is installed so the teeth point backwards and it counter-rotates, or turns the opposite way.  It is set very low, just low enough to nick, or score, the bottom surface of the material being cut.  It counter-rotates to ensure a clean cut on the bottom edge of the plywood – the face of the plywood is supported by the core so there is no tearout.  Of course, having a blade rotating in the wrong direction, trying to pull the stock forward could be very dangerous in theory.  However, because the blade is taking such a light cut, the weight of the material it is cutting is enough to keep the scoring blade from pulling it forward.  Here is a very short clip of the scoring blade in use.

Yes, sliding table saws with scoring blades are great for plywood.

But that’s not why I bought mine.  Plywood is great for some things, but my designs don’t have much use for plywood.  Besides, my workshop is not large enough to easily manage a full sheet of plywood.  Most of my work uses solid wood, and I feel my saw is equally advantageous.  The sliding table is great for straight line ripping.  That’s when I have a rough piece of lumber with no straight edges.  Without this saw, I would joint one face and one edge, then rip the other edge.  But now, I just clamp the piece of lumber to the sliding table and push it past the blade for a straight cut.  Then I turn it around and use the fence to get the other edge straight and parallel.  I’ve rarely used my jointer to edge-joint since I got this saw.  It’s a big time saver – especially when the edge isn’t close to being straight.

Straight line ripping is half of the reason I bought this saw.  The other half is to do wide crosscuts.  With my old contractor’s saw, small cuts were easy with the miter gauge.  Crosscuts up to about a foot or so were manageable with a sled, but wider cuts required a circular saw.

A few advantages that I hadn’t thought about when choosing a saw include cutting tapers and small parts.  Tapers are a simple matter of clamping the stock to the sliding table at the intended angle and making the cut.  With a conventional table saw, small parts can be a challenge to cut safely, but with the hold-down clamp I just position the part, clamp it down, and can safely cut the part while standing at the end out of the outrigger, a full 3′ away from the blade.  I am very glad that I ordered the hold-down.  Another advantage is that all the clutter that sometimes ends up on the table doesn’t get in your way… as long as it’s on the sliding table.  Instead, it just moves with you.

A couple other niceties that this saw has, but aren’t exclusive to a sliding table saw include the european-style fence (similar to the Unifence) which can be used in the short configuration where the fence is slid forwards so that it at the leading edge of the blade.  This virtually eliminates any chance of stock getting trapped between the fence and blade.  I use the short fence a lot for ripping cuts and repetitive cross-cuts.  The 5HP motor is certainly nice too.  Blade changes are made easy thanks to an arbor lock and a single wrench after moving the sliding table to the forward-most position.  This video was taken soon after I got the saw; I am now more efficient at changing blades but the procedure remains the same.

Working with Melamine Particle Board

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Furniture is what I primarily make, and I think that solid wood is the best choice of materials.  No two pieces are identical, and its consistent nature lends itself well to carving – there is no risk of cutting through one layer into another creating an ugly seam.

But solid wood is not always the best material.  Recently, I made some utilitarian cabinets using melamine-covered particle board.  I don’t know if I’ve ever worked with this material, but over the past few days I became aware of some of its nuances and nuisances.

Like MDF, it is flat.  And heavy.  Sheets of plywood on the other hand are often warped, especially if stored improperly.

Like the veneers on most plywoods, the melamine skin is very thin and chips easily.  I am fortunate to have a scoring blade on my table saw which produces flawless cuts.  Because the scoring blade protrudes above the table by only about 1/16″ or so the material being cut must be flat or the scoring blade won’t do its job.

Joints that are meant to be even have to be even when assembled.  You don’t have much opportunity to flush them afterwards, especially if you’ve already edge-banded them (which is easiest).

Particle board is fragile.  Drop it and a corner will likely be destroyed.  It is not nearly as tough as plywood or solid wood.  It also has less strength, so it can sag even under its own weight if not supported.

White melamine can be clearly marked on with pencil and easily cleaned with a damp cloth.

Pre-glued melamine edging, applied with an iron, is easy to apply.  Use the iron to activate the glue, then press it down with a block of wood to ensure good contact.  Being a hand-plane guy, I used a metal-bodied plane with its blade retracted.  My logic is that the plane is easy to hold and the iron sole acts as a heat sink, quickly cooling down and setting the glue.

If you have a lot of edging to trim, dedicated tools are a good buy.  Otherwise, a plane iron does a good job but is slower.  Tape over part of the edge so that you don’t accidentily scratch the panel.

It’s prefinished, so no extra work is required.  Once it’s edge-banded and assembled, it’s done!

Prefinished means dealing with glue squeeze-out is a snap.  Just pop off the glue with a chisel.  Because glue won’t stick to the slick melamine surface, that means plain butt joints won’t work.  For these cabinets, I used floating tenons.  Screws could have also worked, but would require the holes to be capped later.