Category Archives: Gluing & Clamping

Maple Trestle Table, Session 22 – Fitting and Joining the Table Top

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3

On the morning of Sunday, April 15th, Morton and I exchanged ideas about trestle tables, spurred on by a recent sketch of a table on which he was working.  That got me yearning to build a trestle table.

I documented my progress live on Twitter which was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.  Here is a list of the previous Sessions:

Session 1 - Flat Boards are Boring;
Session 2 - Playing with Slabs;
Session 3 - From Two Slabs to One Table Top;
Session 4 - Clamping Odd Shapes and Sketching on Wood;
Session 5 - Routing Pockets for Battens;
Session 6 - Making Battens and Installing Countertop Connectors;
Session 7 - Installing Battens and Flattening the Underside;
Session 8 - Make Your Tools Work for You and Flattening the Top;
Session 9 - Mortises the Slow Way (or Why I’m Buying a Domino XL);
Session 10 - Curvy Legs are Always Good;
Session 11 - Straight Lines on Wonky Surfaces;
Session 12 - Fitting the Mother of all Mortise & Tenon Joints;
Session 13 - Making Things Better, Worse, then Better;
Session 14 - Battens and Complicated Tenons, Again;
Session 15 - The Trestle Comes Together Session;
Session 16 - Angled Mortises and Tenons;
Session 17 - Two Feet for Two Legs;
Session 18 - Attachment Strips and Power Carving;
Session 19 - Refining the Sculpted Base;
Session 20 - A Little Sanding, then Lots More Sanding; and
Session 21 – Preparing for a Big Glue-Up.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks I’m back at work on the table top. The tenons are glued into one side. #flairww -12:34 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The fit of the tenons into the mortises is too tight to allow easy assembly so I’m going to work on that. #flairww -12:35 PM May 22nd, 2012

Tumblewood Have you thought about only gluing the middle tenon on each? RT @FlairWoodworks: The fit of the tenons into the mortises is too tight to allow an easy assembly so I’m going to work on that. #flairww -12:38 PM May 22, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Tumblewood I’ll be gluing only the outermost tenon of each end. #flairww -12:38 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Softwood wedges are awesome. Here, I’m using them to drive apart the joint. #flairww -12:49 PM May 22nd, 2012

luggermatt @FlairWoodworks I use softwood wedges a lot. Saves so much struggling :-) -12:51 PM May 22, 2012

FlairWoodworks I hope it doesn’t take all day to tune these tenons, like it did to cut them. I’m starting to tire of wrestling with these slabs. #flairww -12:51 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I just noticed that Sessions 19-22 have been on that day of the month! (Welcome to Session 22!) #flairww -12:53 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Are there any clamps that have an endless thread? I dislike having to reset clamps to pull together big joints. #flairww -12:59 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks That’s one of the reasons I like QuickGrip clamps – they can clamp their entire capacity without being reset. #flairww -1:00 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve gotta say, it’s no fun test-fitting these monster joints. #flairww -1:22 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The trouble with fitting these slabs is that because they are so heavy, I can’t feel where the joint is tight.  There is no sensitivity. #flairww -1:29 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Pound the joint part-way together until it gets stuck, drive it apart with wedges, trim the tenons a little, repeat. #flairww -1:33 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks This scale of work merits full baseball-type swings of the mallet. #flairww -1:37 PM May 22nd, 2012

Toolwriter @FlairWoodworks Bigger hammer….I like hammers… -1:45 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks One of those Commander mallets might fit the bill. #flairww RT @Toolwriter: @FlairWoodworks Bigger hammer….I like hammers… -1:46 PM May 22nd, 2012

Tumblewood @FlairWoodworks @Toolwriter @FlairWoodworks what is a Commander mallet? 2lbs sledge? -1:47 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks My longest clamp is just long enough to pull the two slabs into alignment. #flairww -1:48 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Tumblewood Try 8-1/2 pounds with a long handle. #flairww @Toolwriter -1:48 PM May 22nd, 2012

Tumblewood @FlairWoodworks @Toolwriter oh god!! Don’t break that puppy! -1:49 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks This seam is very tight. #flairww -1:57 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks However, the other seam is not tight. I’ll see if a couple more clamps can pull it together. #flairww -1:58 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks More clamping pressure is just causing the caul to slip. #flairww -2:02 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks It’s this sliver of light that I’m trying to eliminate. #flairww -2:06 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I summoned my super-human strength (actually I just took a break) but could not close the joint. #flairww -2:20 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ll wedge the joint apart, tune it, and try again. #flairww -2:20 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I took a 30-minute break to discuss a coalition between #woodchat and @MWA_National. Back to work on the table now. #flairww -3:02 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Somebody made lunch so I’ll go eat now! #flairww -3:06 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Back after lunch, I’ll work to take the two slabs apart so I can work on the fit. #flairww -3:56 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Wedges are awesome! It was a lot easier to take the slabs apart with wedges than to put them together with clamps and a mallet. #flairww -4:03 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks There was nothing obvious preventing the joint from closing so I just cleaned it up a little. #flairww -4:08 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Okay, I’m ready to try another dry-fit. #flairww -4:12 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks This time I was able to close the joint most of the way with my dead blow mallet. Now I’ll use clamps. #flairww -4:18 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I like to hear creaking as I tighten the clamps, which indicates that something is moving and a gap is (hopefully) closing. #flairww -4:24 PM May 22nd, 2012

malphrusoxide @FlairWoodworks creaking >>> cracking. -4:27 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Yes, that’s possible too. RT @malphrusoxide: @FlairWoodworks creaking >>> cracking. -4:32 PM May 22nd, 2012

malphrusoxide @FlairWoodworks oh, i was agreeing, saying creaking is much much better than cracking, ha ha. -4:33 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I got the gap closed. This time, I also used a countertop connector which helped. #flairww -4:31 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now I’ll take the top apart once more while I ponder the question, “Am I ready to start the glue-up?” #flairww -4:37 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks And the slabs are apart once again. I’m getting good at this! #flairww -4:42 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks AM I READY….? #flairww -4:43 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I like doing things that are challenging, but this project has pushed me more than most. #flairww -4:44 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks At this moment, it is as if I am about to jump out of a plane… #flairww -4:51 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks … Everything is in place for this to go smoothly… #flairww -4:53 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks …the next 15 minutes will feel like two minutes… #flairww-4:53 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks …and there’s a chance that things could go horribly wrong…#flairww -4:53 PM May 22nd, 2012

bltww @FlairWoodworks I felt the same way when I went to glue up my workbench. -4:53 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks …but I know I have to do it. The best thing to do is… to just go for it and not over-think it! #flairww -4:54 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ll bet you did! #flairww RT @bltww: @FlairWoodworks I felt the same way when I went to glue up my workbench. -4:54 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks You can only prepare so much. Then you have to take action. #flairww -4:56 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I jumped. See you on the other side. #flairww -4:56 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks EXHALE! #flairww -5:11 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks That went pretty well. It took about 14 minutes of intense action (I forgot to turn on the video camera). #flairww -5:15 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The only unexpected challenge was having to deal with a glue clot that clogged the nozzle of my glue bottle. #flairww -5:16 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I almost put the tail end of a clamp through the door of my microwave too. #flairww -5:16 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is what I set out to do today and I got it done. I’ll let the glue set for a day. #flairww -5:18 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The countertop connectors equalize the force of three clamps. #flairww -5:21 PM May 22nd, 2012

kring_l  @FlairWoodworks Nice work, go have a beer #TerrifyingGlueUps -5:33 PM May 22nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I think I will! #flairww RT @kring_l: @FlairWoodworks Nice work, go have a beer #TerrifyingGlueUps -5:36 PM May 22nd, 2012

That was a very exciting session for me and I was glad to see it come together so well.  I was intimidated by the task but succeeded.  Have you ever had a woodworking task like this?  Share it in the comments section.

After the glue dries, I’ll resurface the slab and start thinking about an edge profile.

Maple Trestle Table, Session 21 – Preparing for a Big Glue-Up

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1

On the morning of Sunday, April 15th, Morton and I exchanged ideas about trestle tables, spurred on by a recent sketch of a table on which he was working.  That got me yearning to build a trestle table.

I documented my progress live on Twitter which was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.  Here is a list of the previous Sessions:

Session 1 - Flat Boards are Boring;
Session 2 - Playing with Slabs;
Session 3 - From Two Slabs to One Table Top;
Session 4 - Clamping Odd Shapes and Sketching on Wood;
Session 5 - Routing Pockets for Battens;
Session 6 - Making Battens and Installing Countertop Connectors;
Session 7 - Installing Battens and Flattening the Underside;
Session 8 - Make Your Tools Work for You and Flattening the Top;
Session 9 - Mortises the Slow Way (or Why I’m Buying a Domino XL);
Session 10 - Curvy Legs are Always Good;
Session 11 - Straight Lines on Wonky Surfaces;
Session 12 - Fitting the Mother of all Mortise & Tenon Joints;
Session 13 - Making Things Better, Worse, then Better;
Session 14 - Battens and Complicated Tenons, Again;
Session 15 - The Trestle Comes Together Session;
Session 16 - Angled Mortises and Tenons;
Session 17 - Two Feet for Two Legs;
Session 18 - Attachment Strips and Power Carving;
Session 19 - Refining the Sculpted Base; and
Session 20 - A Little Sanding, then Lots More Sanding.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks Welcome to Session 21!  I’m… sanding the base. #flairww -12:44 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I lightly chamfered the bottoms of the feet pads with a block plane. One leg is done. #flairww -1:35 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Yesterday, I was battling pigtails (circular scratches) left by my random orbit sander. #flairww -1:58 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks A comment by @Tumblewood reminded me that the pigtails may have been caused by operator error rather than the tool. #flairww -1:58 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks When shaping, I keep the sander moving quickly to avoid creating dips. But when smoothing and polishing I need to move more slowly. #flairww -2:00 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks The stretcher is now done as well. Just the other leg, then the base is complete! #flairww -2:23 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve finished sanding the base! #flairww -3:23 PM May 21st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks woot! -3:26 PM May 21st, 2012

TheWoodBug @FlairWoodworks WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOt :) -3:27 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @DyamiPlotke @TheWoodBug I feel kinda lost, like I’m not sure what to do next. I guess 12 hours straight of sanding does that. #flairww-3:27 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks As much as I’d like to put base on the ground and the top on it, I don’t want to move the top around more than necessary. #flairww -3:29 PM May 21st, 2012

TheWoodBug @FlairWoodworks @DyamiPlotke Exactly why i never do one build at a time,always something different to do that way, and more productive – -3:30 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I think my next step will be to finish joining the table top. I’ll take it apart and glue in the floating tenons. #flairww -3:33 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @TheWoodBug I don’t have room to build two big tables in my shop like you do! @DyamiPlotke #flairww -3:34 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ll work on the top after lunch. #flairww -3:36 PM May 21st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks why use tenons, counter attacher things & batons to hold the top together? -3:50 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @DyamiPlotke Each has its own strength. Tenons provide alignment over the length of the joint, battens provide “snap resistance”… #flairww -3:55 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @DyamiPlotke … and the countertop connectors hold the two slabs together mechanically. #flairww -3:55 PM May 21st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks I know, but wouldn’t any one of the three plus a basic glue joint have been plenty strong? -4:08 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @DyamiPlotke I’m not sure because the joint is long-grain to mitred end grain. #flairww -4:12 PM May 21st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks ah. Could be a weak glue joint. Makes sense to reinforce. -4:31 PM May 21st, 2012

sleepydogwood @FlairWoodworks sounds exciting -4:47 PM May 21st, 2012

sleepydogwood @FlairWoodworks you building as for a customer or a spec piece ? -4:49 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks It’s speculative. Know anyone interested? #flairww RT @sleepydogwood: @FlairWoodworks you building as for a customer or a spec piece ? -4:51 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Have you seen the slideshow depicting the progress of the Maple Trestle Table? #flairww -4:25 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks So I walked back into the shop and tripped over the table base. Thankfully, it’s okay. (I am too.) #flairww -4:37 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Before I take the two halves apart I want to work out a clamping strategy. #flairww -4:47 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I just did what I think is the smartest thing I’ve done all day – I moved the base out of the workshop where it won’t get damaged. #flairww -4:53 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m going to make a caul to provide a square clamping surface. I’ll need one for the other end too. #flairww -4:56 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I forgot how heavy this table top is. #flairww -5:01 PM May 21st, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks it would only be stupid if it was raining out!  -5:01 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster It is raining outside, but wisely, I didn’t move the table base outside! #flairww -5:04 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I traced the table edge’s profile onto a piece of 3/4″ particle board. #flairww -5:07 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m going to use three layers of 3/4″ particle board for the cauls so they are 2-1/4″ thick. The table top is 2-1/8″ thick. #flairww -5:14 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I screwed the three layers of particle board together and cut the curve with my jigsaw. #flairww -5:50 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks To keep the caul from slipping on the curve, I screwed a scrap to the caul’s face. #flairww -5:53 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks The two blue clamps keep the caul from sliding as the red clamps apply pressure to the joint. #flairww -5:56 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now I’ll take apart the two halves of the top! #flairww -5:58 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I put a piece of tape on the end of my wrench used to tighten the countertop connectors. #flairww -6:02 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks The clamps pull the joint tight. But the pressure is uneven and I can’t see the other side. #flairww -6:11 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m contemplating how to do this glue-up. I need to be able to put clamps on both sides and need to be able to see both sides. #flairww -6:12 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I need to use clamps at least 50″ long. I have Bessey K-Body clamps – (4) 50″, (2) 82″ as well as (4) 72″ aluminum bar clamps. #flairww -6:15 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I am considering doing this glue-up vertically with the table on edge. #flairww -6:15 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Sawhorses would also work. #flairww -6:19 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I still have to figure out how to get the slabs apart too. Those monster tenons were friction fit! #flairww -6:20 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is the clamping arrangement I’ll use. The top side is flat and the joint is tight. #flairww -6:43 PM May 21st, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks that should do the trick. -6:46 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks One of these might be handy. #flairww-6:48 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I much prefer the handles on the new K-Body clamps. They’re bigger and allow a better grip. #flairww -6:55 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Clamps are off… now how do I get the two slabs apart? #flairww -6:58 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I was smart enough to not cut the ends flush so I have a place to start driving apart the joint. #flairww -7:02 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I got the joint apart. Now I need to remove the floating tenons! #flairww -7:08 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Have I mentioned that I love these Extractor pliers for pulling tenons? #flairww -7:12 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Who wants to see THIS glue-up? #flairww -7:18 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I plan to glue the floating tenons in the shaded areas. #flairww -7:27 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Well that was fun. #flairww -8:31 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks In the first stage of the glue-up, I glued the tenons into one of the slabs. #flairww -9:00 PM May 21st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I am tired. I’m done in the shop for the day. #flairww -9:00 PM May 21st, 2012

Next comes the big glue-up.  You don’t want to miss it!  You can leave a comment here.

Maple Trestle Table, Session 15 – The Trestle Comes Together

Posted on by
3

On the morning of Sunday, April 15th, Morton and I exchanged ideas about trestle tables, spurred on by a recent sketch of a table on which he was working.  That got me yearning to build a trestle table.

I documented my progress live on Twitter which was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.  Here is a list of the previous Sessions:

Session 1 - Flat Boards are Boring;
Session 2 - Playing with Slabs;
Session 3 - From Two Slabs to One Table Top;
Session 4 - Clamping Odd Shapes and Sketching on Wood;
Session 5 - Routing Pockets for Battens;
Session 6 - Making Battens and Installing Countertop Connectors;
Session 7 - Installing Battens and Flattening the Underside;
Session 8 - Make Your Tools Work for You and Flattening the Top;
Session 9 - Mortises the Slow Way (or Why I’m Buying a Domino XL);
Session 10 - Curvy Legs are Always Good;
Session 11 - Straight Lines on Wonky Surfaces;
Session 12 - Fitting the Mother of all Mortise & Tenon Joints;
Session 13 - Making Things Better, Worse, then Better; and
Session 14 – Battens and Complicated Tenons, Again.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks My first step is to drill out most of the waste. #flairww -7:29 PM May 11th, 2012

HalfInchShy Sounds like RotoRooter :) a plumbing theme tonight! RT @FlairWoodworks: My first step is to drill out most of the waste. #flairww -7:32 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve drilled out the waste. Now I’ll chop the mortise square. #flairww -7:35 PM May 11th, 2012

BCcraftmaster@FlairWoodworks go for it! (#connect4) -7:37 PM May 11, 2012

FlairWoodworks I removed most of the waste before carefully working up to my knife lines around the perimeter. #flairww -7:43 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve squared up one side of the mortise. I’m going to try a different technique to finish. #flairww -7:49 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy I do have a sink to repair later. Seriously. #flairww -7:49 PM May 11, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster I love that game! #connect4 -7:49 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I installed a flush-trim bit in my router and set it so the bearing rides on the bottom of the workpiece. #flairww -7:55 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The flush-trim bit will follow the shape of the mortise I carefully cut on the other side. #flairww -7:55 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Routing the rest guaranteed straight walls and avoided some tricky layout. #flairww -7:59 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I cleaned up the round corners left by the router with chisels. Now for a test fit! #flairww -8:05 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The fit looks good so far! #flairww -8:07 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks If I can’t tell if the joint is bound, I draw a line in the tenon and watch to see if it disappears. #flairww -8:13 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks To prevent denting the leg, I use a scrap of wood. #flairww  -8:16 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The joint fit tightly with no adjustments required! #flairww -8:21 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks And the assembly doesn’t even rock! #flairww -8:26 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks That tenon is a perfect fit! Sometimes I impress (and surprise) myself. #flairww -8:29 PM May 11th, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks well done, Chris. -8:33 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Thanks, Dyami! #flairww RT @DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks well done, Chris. -8:33 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Another picture of the assembled trestle, inverted on the table top. #flairww -8:39 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The tenons are still proud at both ends. I may leave them that way. #flairww -8:41 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks This distance is 1/2″ longer on this side but that doesn’t really matter. #flairww -8:43 PM May 11th, 2012

bltww @FlairWoodworks relative dimensioning FTW [for the win]! -8:45 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks That’s right! Adjust to fit! #flairww RT @bltww: @FlairWoodworks relative dimensioning FTW! -8:45 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Right now, I’m mostly just standing here admiring my progress. #flairww -8:46 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The slight angle of the legs does mean that they don’t sit centred on the battens. #flairww -8:47 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks But I can fix that. #flairww -8:48 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I used a tape measure and level to mark the bottom of the legs where they will be cut. #flairww -8:52 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Just playing around with clamps. #flairww -9:01 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks While the clamps pulled all the tenon shoulders tight, they also pulled one leg off the batten. #flairww -9:04 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I don’t think it would be easy to glue up these tenons the traditional way. #flairww -9:06 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m thinking of applying a thin glue like Chair Doctor to the assembled joint. I can put a pin through the tenon too. #flairww -9:06 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I stood the trestle assembly up on end so the gravity will help the glue penetrate the joint. #flairww -9:18 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I ensured the shoulder was as tight as possible before applying glue. #flairww -9:19 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Take a deep breath and let the glue flow! #flairww -9:22 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I applied glue to all the seams and let it penetrate. This joint is tighter than most so not as much glue is penetrating. #flairww -9:29 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks There is glue here. #flairww -9:31 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks And more glue here. #flairww -9:32 PM May 11th, 2012

Tumblewood PERFECT!! Looks great, Chris! RT @FlairWoodworks: It fit tightly with no adjustments! #flairww -9:34 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks For critical glue-ups, I leave them overnight and longer if feasible. I just need to ensure that all the glue doesn’t get absorbed. #flairww -9:35 PM May 11th, 2012

TheWoodBug @FlairWoodworks Wow I thought I liked a challenge ;) -9:35 PM May 11th, 2012 FlairWoodworks Thanks, Vic! I can’t wait to start sculpting the base! (I think that’s what I’ll do. ) RT @Tumblewood: PERFECT!! Looks great, Chris! -9:36 PM May 11th, 2012

Tumblewood How will it sit? Where is the 3rd point? RT @FlairWoodworks: And it doesn’t even rock! #flairww -9:36 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I still need to add the wide feet. RT @Tumblewood: How will it sit? Where is the 3rd point? #flairww -9:37 PM May 11th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Watching this come together is so much fun! #flairww RT @TheWoodBug: @FlairWoodworks Wow - I thought I liked a challenge ;) -9:37 PM May 11th, 2012

Tumblewood @FlairWoodworks It’s going to be a magnificent table! RT @FlairWoodworks: I still need to add the wide feet. -9:39 PM May 11, 2012

TheWoodBug @FlairWoodworks Yes you seem very excited! and rightly so. like a kid in a candy store or is it bull in china shop( batten oops) -9:40 PM May 11, 2012

TheWoodBug @FlairWoodworks Looking great! can not wait to see it once you start carving!!! -9:41 PM May 11, 2012

Do you like what you see?  Leave a comment!

In the next session, I’ll cut the mortise and tenon joinery for the feet.

Maple Trestle Table, Session 10 – Curvy Legs are Always Good

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1

On the morning of Sunday, April 15th, Morton and I exchanged ideas about trestle tables, spurred on by a recent sketch of a table on which he was working.  That got me yearning to build a trestle table.

I documented my progress live on Twitter which was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.  Here is a list of the previous Sessions:

Session 1 - Flat Boards are Boring;
Session 2 - Playing with Slabs;
Session 3 - From Two Slabs to One Table Top;
Session 4 - Clamping Odd Shapes and Sketching on Wood;
Session 5 - Routing Pockets for Battens;
Session 6 - Making Battens and Installing Countertop Connectors;
Session 7 - Installing Battens and Flattening the Underside;
Session 8 - Make Your Tools Work for You and Flattening the Top; and
Session 9 - Mortises the Slow Way (or Why I’m Buying a Domino XL).

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks The rain’s coming down hard in Port Moody and I’m back in the shop working on the trestle table. Follow along as I start the base! #flairww -12:13 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m laying out the base components on these four pieces of maple. #flairww -12:22 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve been looking at this leg I roughly cut, trying to decide if it looks too big. #flairww -12:47 PM May 1st, 2012

ravinheart @FlairWoodworks first impressions … my vote is Not too big #flairww -12:56 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks So I cut the legs and they still feel lacking. I think I need curved legs instead of straight legs. #flairww -1:12 PM May 1st, 2012

ravinheart @FlairWoodworks yup … curvy legs are always good :) #flairww -1:13 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’d describe what I want to do, but it will be easier and more clear if I just do it. #flairww -1:15 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks The hose feels like it’s fighting me so I’m going to reattach it to the ceiling. #flairww -1:33 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I had taken the hose down from the ceiling so that I could reach all the way across the shop when I cut the edges of the table top. #flairww -1:33 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks That’s better. #flairww -1:37 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Dust collection on the Festool Trion jigsaw is not great, even with the dust shroud in place. #flairww -1:39 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks However, the orbital feature is terrific. Cuts are very quick when the saw is set to a full orbital stroke. #flairww -1:40 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here’s what I want to do. #flairww -1:49 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I scribed a line along the leg where I need to cut the curved brace. What’s the easiest way to do the cut? #flairww -1:52 PM May 1st, 2012

ravinheart @FlairWoodworks Start on the Bandsaw or by hand ? #flairww -1:54 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is how I’d make the cut. #flairww -1:54 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Perfect! #flairww -1:56 PM May 1st, 2012

ravinheart @FlairWoodworks Oh ya you got the slider … nice #flairww -1:57 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I also need to make a cut square to the last. This could not be more simple. #flairww -1:57 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @ravinheart The sliding table saw makes this stuff TOO EASY. #flairww -2:00 PM May 1st, 2012

Tooltutor @FlairWoodworks That’s a sweet slider! -2:01 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is the basic idea. #flairww -2:02 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I love having it! #flairww RT @Tooltutor: @FlairWoodworks That’s a sweet slider! -2:02 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Anybody out there have a track saw? How easy would it be to make these two cuts perfectly square in 2-1/2″ thick maple? #flairww -2:04 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I could also lean it over like this. Any thoughts? #flairww -2:07 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Yay – it’s sunny outside now! #flairww -2:12 PM May 1st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks I have a track saw, but I’d leave that cut to my miter or table saws. -2:12 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Why? #flairww RT @DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks I have a track saw, but I’d leave that cut to my miter or table saws. -2:12 PM May 1st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks I like [the lean]. -2:12 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Ha! Now I need to find another piece of maple with curved grain! #flairww -2:15 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I broke another blade. After breaking the first blade, I backed off the side guides a little. What gives? #flairww -2:21 PM May 1st, 2012

Tooltutor @FlairWoodworks u could do it with a track saw with the accuracy of your square though I’d def prefer a table or miter if it fits -2:27 PM May 1st, 2012

Tooltutor @FlairWoodworks you’re getting too buff man-handling those bigass slabs, snapping blades like toothpicks -2:30 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Tooltutor Yeah, that’s the problem :) #flairww -2:33 PM May 1st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks Easier to determine right angles, less setup and greater depth of cut. -2:35 PM May 1st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks yes, I do [like the leaning leg design]. -2:35 PM May 1st, 2012

Tooltutor @DyamiPlotke @flairwoodworks seconded  -2:36 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Before installing a third blade, I decided to see if I could find some more information on the set up of the jigsaw guides. #flairww -2:36 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Unfortunately, the written instructions for the @FestoolUSA Trion Jigsaw are not very comprehensive. #flairww -2:37 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks But I did find a good video by @FestoolUSA on Festool Owners Group.  I did not know to pull the arbor shaft down (1:20). #flairww -2:38 PM May 1st, 2012

Tbdi0629 @FlairWoodworks I totally use my track saw for cutting slabs.-2:45 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Did you see my application?  #flairwwRT @Tbdi0629: @FlairWoodworks I totally use my track saw for cutting slabs.-2:47 PM May 1st, 2012

Tbdi0629 @FlairWoodworks yep, that’s a slick way to do it if you have that option. -2:50 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I noticed that one of the dust extraction ports in the jigsaw’s shoe is clogged. I’ve had this before. #flairww -2:58 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Would it be as easy with a track saw? #flairww RT @Tbdi0629: @FlairWoodworks yep, that’s a slick way to do it if you have that option. -3:00 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I was unable to clear the blockage just by digging at it with a pencil, as I’ve done in the past. #flairww -3:01 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I removed the shoe to expose the blockage. #flairww -3:04 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I picked up an assortment pack of bits a number of years ago which included hex and Torx drivers. Very useful. #flairww -3:08 PM May 1st, 2012

Tbdi0629 @FlairWoodworks That’s a great debate evoking question! :) but I would say yes. -3:19 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here are the two legs roughly positioned. I’m going with the lean. #flairww -3:26 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks What would be the argument for “no”? #flairww RT@Tbdi0629: @FlairWoodworks That’s a great debate evoking question! :) but I would say yes. -3:27 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Lunch time. #flairww -3:30 PM May 1st, 2012

Tbdi0629 @FlairWoodworks I’m not sure, maybe someone would rather rig up a jig for their tablesaw or bandsaw or etc. but me… I prefer my festool [track saw]. -3:33 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Tbdi0629 The trouble is, a typical 10″ tablesaw has a capacity of about 2-1/2″ and a jig reduces that. #flairww -3:35 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Tbdi0629 And a bandsaw doesn’t give the same quality of cut. #flairww -3:35 PM May 1st, 2012

Tbdi0629 @FlairWoodworks yep, my thoughts exactly. -3:40 PM May 1st, 2012

Tumblewood: YES!!! The White Trash Boom Arm!! RT @FlairWoodworks: The hose feels like its fighting me so I’m going to reattach it to the ceiling. #flairww -4:03 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Ah, and there’s the inventor! #flairww RT @Tumblewood: YES!!! The White Trash Boom Arm!! -4:08 PM May 1st, 2012

Tumblewood The table is looking awesome, Chris! RT @FlairWoodworks: Ah, and there’s the inventor! #flairww RT @Tumblewood: YES!!! The White Trash Boom Arm!! -4:09 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Thanks, Vic! I’m enjoying the creative process building the base! RT @Tumblewood: The table is looking awesome, Chris! #flairww -4:10 PM May 1st, 2012

kring_l:@FlairWoodworks good call with the lean are you matching both sides or opposing? -4:26 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks They lean in opposing directions. #flairww RT @kring_l:@FlairWoodworks good call with the lean are you matching both sides or opposing? -4:30 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @kring_l Remember the spin match I used for the top? I’d like to match that. #flairww -4:31 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks My lunch break is done! I need to figure out how much the legs should lean, then join the braces and cut the tops flat. #flairww -4:33 PM May 1st, 2012

Black_SheepWW @Tumblewood @FlairWoodworks Did you have to extend the length of the hose for this? I’m fighting mine when sanding. Needs to be hanging. -4:33 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Black_SheepWW Definitely. I have a 36mm hose, then a 27mm hose off of that. Each are 3m long, I think. #flairww -4:34 PM May 1st, 2012

Tumblewood Dental picks!! RT @FlairWoodworks: I was unable to clear the blockage just by digging at it with a pencil, as I’ve done in the past. #flairww -4:41 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Ha! I’d never used this square since I bought it 4 years ago and was thinking of “Overflowing” it. #flairww -4:43 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks It turns out to be the perfect tool for this! #flairww -4:43 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks My next step is to joint one face flat and plane the other parallel. #flairww -4:45 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I still don’t have a Domino XL (or even @tumblewood’s M600). Fortunately, 50mm x 10mm Domino tenons will work. #flairww -4:57 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Before cutting joinery, I need to fair the inside edge. #flairww -4:59 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I used my #3 bench plane, which affords a more comfortable two-handed grip than my block plane. #flairww -5:06 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks There’s some pretty figure on this edge. Too bad that it’s one of the least visible parts. #flairww -5:10 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I put a pencil line across the joint where I want the Domino tenons. #flairww -5:21 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve got the mortises bored. Time for a dry-fit. #flairww -5:38 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Okay, I’m going for the glue-up now. #flairww -5:39 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks But first, I need to get the joint apart and remove the Domino tenons… #flairww -5:41 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I bought these Extractor pliers for pulling nails. I use them for pulling Domino tenons. #flairww -5:44 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Angles are always a challenge to clamp. Here’s the caul I used. #flairww -6:00 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now I’ll work on the second leg. #flairww -6:04 PM May 1st, 2012

Tbdi0629 @FlairWoodworks I have a set of “test” dominos I have sanded down, to use in my test fits. I marked them black. -6:08 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve got the parts for the second leg surfaced. Now I need to lay out and cut the joinery. #flairww -6:15 PM May 1st, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks I use pliers to pull Dominos too. -6:21 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Just like on the other leg, the inside curve has beautiful grain. And it’s hidden. #flairww -6:25 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Time for another dry fit. I don’t put Domino tenons in the oversized mortises for the dry run. #flairww -6:34 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve laid out another angled caul for the other leg. #flairww -6:39 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Okay, time for the second glue-up session! #flairww -6:44 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Another successful glue-up with the right amount of glue squeeze-out. #flairww -6:53 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I kept glue away from the left side of the joint near the inside corner so I wouldn’t have to clean it up later. #flairww -6:54 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Time to clean up the workshop a bit. #flairww -6:59 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Fun fact: I had considered using metal legs like these. #flairww -7:11 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Time to go make dinner. #flairww -7:12 PM May 1st, 2012

Tumblewood @FlairWoodworks I can see that shape for the legs, but would prefer them from wood. #flairww -7:40 PM May 1st, 2012

kring_l @FlairWoodworks I agree with @Tumblewood the metal would take away from all the work you put into the top -7:51 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks It wasn’t that much work. Okay, it was. #flairww RT @kring_l the metal would take away from all the work you put into the top @Tumblewood -9:02 PM May 1st, 2012

Tumblewood A nice piece will have people crawling to check it out. The detail will not be in vain. RT @FlairWoodworks: Just like on the other leg, the inside curve has beautiful grain. And it’s hidden. #flairww

FlairWoodworks Okay… I’m back in the shop after dinner. I’ll start by unclamping the legs and cleaning off the excess glue. #flairww -10:09 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks It seems Twitter on my phone won’t post tweets with pictures after 8pm. Here comes a backlog of Tweets… #flairww -10:39 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is how I’m laying out the top and bottom cuts to ensure the leg is centred on the foot. #flairww -10:40 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks The arm looks overly heavy and I’ll probably trim it down a little. I’m not sure how yet, though. #flairww -10:41 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is how it will look installed, only the leg will be on the batten, not behind it. #flairww -10:42 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m using my spokeshave to refine the curve of the arm.#flairww -10:42 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks The curve of this section is too severe for my flat spokeshave. I don’t have a convex spokeshave. #flairww -10:44 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I can, however, cheat a little by extending the spokeshave’s blade out a little further. #flairww -10:44 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve switched to carving gouges to blend the arm into the leg.#flairww -10:52 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I worked across the grain with three gouges of different sweeps to begin blending the arm into the leg. #flairww -10:58 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m working on the second leg where the same things need to be done. #flairww -11:20 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks With the opposing angles of the legs, attaching the stretcher will be interesting, to say the least. #flairww -11:37 PM May 1st, 2012

luggermatt @FlairWoodworks Certainly looks fun :-) -11:38 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Hmmm. I’ll let you know if it was when I’m finished! #flairww RT@luggermatt: @FlairWoodworks Certainly looks fun :-) -11:38 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks If only I could twist the stretcher… #flairww -11:39 PM May 1st, 2012

FlairWoodworks Okay, that’s a good place to stop tonight. To be continued…#flairww -11:50 PM May 1st, 2012

Morton @Tbdi0629 @flairwoodworks hahah – I have the exact same [test dominos], with the exact same black markings ;) heh. -4:06 AM May 2nd, 2012

Tbdi0629 @Morton That’s funny! But then again, what’s the saying about minds that think alike….hmmm :) -7:09 AM May 2nd, 2012

McPhersonDoug @FlairWoodworks Really enjoying following ur VERY cool table build. Thanks for tweeting your progress. Great stuff. #woodchat -6:19 AM May 2nd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Tbdi0629 @Morton I had a set of Dominos that I’d sanded down too. I dyed my set red. #flairww -9:38 AM May 2nd, 2012

In Session 11, I did more work on the legs and began work on the stretcher-to-leg joinery.

Maple Trestle Table, Session 9 – Mortises the Slow Way (or Why I’m Buying a Domino XL)

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16

On the morning of Sunday, April 15th, Morton and I exchanged ideas about trestle tables, spurred on by a recent sketch of a table on which he was working.  That got me yearning to build a trestle table.

I documented my progress live on Twitter which was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.  Here is a list of the previous Sessions:

Session 1 - Flat Boards are Boring;
Session 2 - Playing with Slabs;
Session 3 - From Two Slabs to One Table Top;
Session 4 - Clamping Odd Shapes and Sketching on Wood;
Session 5 - Routing Pockets for Battens;
Session 6 - Making Battens and Installing Countertop Connectors;
Session 7 - Installing Battens and Flattening the Underside; and
Session 8 - Make Your Tools Work for You and Flattening the Top.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks I haven’t worked on the table for four days and I’m finally getting a chance to get back at it today! Follow along with #flairww. -2:24 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks When I left off, I had just finished flattening the table top. Joinery between the two slabs comes next. #flairww -2:26 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve laid out on the faces where I want the mortises to be located. There will be three 3″-long mortises. #flairww -2:38 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Since I can use the same layout for the other side, I put pencil marks on my aluminum ruler. #flairww -2:41 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The layout of the second half was ridiculously easy. Now I need to flip over the top and separate the two halves. #flairww -2:44 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Maybe I should clean up some of these plane shavings first… #flairww  -2:48 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Two bags of shavings! #flairww -2:55 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks In the shavings, I found the transfer punch I’d used when I installed the battens. #flairww -2:57 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Well, that was kind of exciting. I didn’t break a horse, but I did knock over one. #flairww -3:02 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m using a socket adapter in my drill to quicky remove the lag bolts. #flairww -3:05 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks They’re free! #flairww -3:09 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ll be using a plunge router to cut the mortises. This is easiest with the surface being mortised in the horizontal position (and the slab vertical). #flairww -3:13 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Had I been able to get a @FestoolUSA Domino XL, I could have easily cut the mortises with the slabs in the horizontal position. #flairww -3:14 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I cannot imagine using a stationary machine such as a horizontal boring machine/slot mortiser to mortise these slabs. #flairww -3:15 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I want really deep mortises and my Milwaukee plunge router has a greater plunge capacity than my Porter Cable. #flairww -3:17 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I used my saddle square to transfer the layout lines from the face to the edge. #flairww -3:21 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I use a large X to clearly mark which sections receive mortises. #flairww  -3:22 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I clamped a straight piece of wood to the router’s base to act as a fence. #flairww -3:25 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Why? I’m not positive that the slabs are of even thickness so I am using the face as a reference surface. #flairww -3:26 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks It’s the distance from the face to the mortise that is important. I used the CS-2 because I’d like them to be roughly centred.#flairww -3:27 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks THAT’S where my CS-2 went! :-P Nice build; I’m having popcorn playing with Domizilla thinking how useful it would be #flairww -3:27 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy Thanks :) I hope @BridgeCityTools makes you a new CS-2 soon! #flairww -3:28 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Because of the live edge, I moved the edge of one mortise. #flairww -3:40 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks I like how you Xed out the X for the mortise. Is that a woodworking double negative? #flairww -3:53 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks More seriously, are you going to use the router horizontally or have you mounted the slab vertically like you did before? #flairww-3:53 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy I’ve got the slab clamped vertically to a sawhorse. #flairww -3:59 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve routed the first set of mortises. They are 2-1/2″ deep which is the capacity of my router bit. #flairww -4:00 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Unfortunately, my Milwaukee plunge router requires me to hold down a stiff plunge lock lever with my thumb in order to release the plunge lock. #flairww -4:01 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks My thumb is quite sore after just three mortises… #flairww -4:01 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks It was a fairly slow process to cut a mortise, too. #flairww -4:02 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks And now I need to set up to rout the set of mortises on the other end of this slab. #flairww -4:05 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks You can smell burnt wood from the friction of the non-fluted shank against the mortise walls. #flairww -4:06 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Oh, I forgot to mention that I’m using a 1/2″ diameter up-spiral router bit. I wouldn’t want to use a straight bit for deep mortises because they don’t clear chips as well. #flairww -4:07 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks It took me over 2 minutes to rout each of the three mortises. #flairww -4:08 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I guess I’ll rout this set of mortises on my knees. #flairww -4:11 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I applied some DriCote to the router bit. It’s supposed to reduce friction and keep the bit clean. #flairww -4:15 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m going to see if I can defeat the sprung plunge lock on my router. #flairww -4:17 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks There’s the culprit! Remove the spring and I’m a happy woodworker! #flairww -4:19 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I bolted the lever back on, positioned where it is comfortable to operate. Here the plunge is locked. #flairww -4:22 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks And I push the lever down to plunge freely! #flairww -4:23 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I might have broken this handle when I knocked over the saw horse. #flairww -4:27 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Hmm… when the plunge mechanism is unlocked, there is noticeable play in one column. Before… #flairww -4:32 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks … and after. I don’t know if you can see it, but I can see and feel it. Not good. #flairww -4:33 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks My Porter Cable has some wiggle too. It’s not as much but still significant at the end of a bit protruding 2-1/2″ from the collet. #flairww-4:34 PM Apr 30th, 2012

malphrusoxide: if you want a better way to measure runout, chuck up a piece of round stock. less tricky to see/measure than a bit. -4:35 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @malphrusoxide Good idea, but it’s plenty clear when you see it in person. I’m evaluating my options right now. #flairww -4:37 PM Apr 30th, 2012

malphrusoxide @FlairWoodworks gotcha. got very little experience with rebuilding routers, but i know the feeling. good luck! -4:38 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @malphrusoxide I’m thinking upgrade, not rebuild. I don’t think it’s a wear issue becuse it has so little use. Blame tolerances. #flairww -4:39 PM Apr 30th, 2012

malphrusoxide @FlairWoodworks i did the same thing. went from old craftsman to new bosch. = night & day. -4:40 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Nice. #flairww RT @malphrusoxide: @FlairWoodworks i did the same thing. went from old craftsman to new bosch. = night & day. -4:41 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @malphrusoxide I have a Bosch 1617EVS plunge router somewhere… gonna find it and see how it feels. #flairww -4:42 PM Apr 30th, 2012

malphrusoxide @FlairWoodworks cool. forget which model bosch i ended up with. was working against a deadline so i didn’t get to shop around like i prefer. -4:43 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I have no idea where the plunge base is. I never change the Bosch 1617 bases because it is very difficult. #flairww-4:46 PM Apr 30th, 2012

DyamiPlotke: my local tool monger has a number of used 3HP PC plunge routers in stock now if you need a new one. -4:52 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I found the plunge base and managed to swap over the router without any drama. The plunge feels good! #flairww -4:53 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Are they good? #flairww RT @DyamiPlotke: my local tool monger has a number of used 3HP PC plunge routers in stock now if you need a new one. -4:54 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The Bosch 1617EVS plunges about 2-3/8″ so it might work.#flairww -4:56 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks This table will be for sale when it is complete. E-mail me if you are interested. #flairww -5:03 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks So far the cost is a Domino XL and OF1400 :) #flairww -5:04 PM Apr 30th, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks I have 1 I bought used & like it equal 2 my Festool OF2000 Different feel but both very nice The PC is big & well balanced -5:05 PM Apr 30th, 2012

malphrusoxide @FlairWoodworks dominoXL v. domino… thoughts? worth the extra coin? -5:05 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @malphrusoxide Totally different applications. For me, the XL makes more sense. But I already have the DF-500. #flairww -5:08 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @malphrusoxide So for me, yes. #flairww -5:08 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks To ensure the fence is positioned the same on my Bosch router, I first plunged the bit into an existing mortise. #flairww -5:16 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Ok… my Bosch router is now set up. Next question: does the switch work? #flairww -5:18 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Yes, it does work. #flairww -5:21 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here goes… mortise set 2… #flairww -5:23 PM Apr 30th, 2012

This video showed how I routed the mortises.  In this real-time video, I routed one of three mortises in this end of the slab.  There were 12 mortises in total.  (Duration – 3:07)

This movie requires Adobe Flash for playback.

woodshaver101 @FlairWoodworks routing bits limit depth,but are precise,I tend to cut deep mortises with a mortise chisel. good luck -5:31 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks … and… done that set of mortises! #flairww -5:34 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @woodshaver101 How long would a 3″ long, 1/2″ wide, and 2-1/2″ deep take you to chop by hand? #flairww -5:36 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks So the second set of mortises took 10 minutes… about 30% longer than the first set. #flairww -5:38 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Before routing this mortise, I should check that it won’t go into this cavity. #flairww -5:43 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I moved the mortise in by 3/4″ to be safe. #flairww -5:48 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Since these pieces are a little awkward to turn upside-down to knock the sawdust out of the mortises, I’m using a stick to scoop chips towards the vacuum hose. #flairww -6:02 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here’s the third set of mortises done. I added a 1/2″ deep haunch and will do the same with the others. #flairww -6:06 PM Apr 30th, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks I have that same set up. Do you have problems getting the motor into the bases? Is the side of your motor all scratched up? -6:06 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster Yes and yes! I took some fine wet/dry paper (dry) and sanded the body smooth. It’s better but not great. #flairww -6:07 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The last mortise has been routed. Now I need to clear out the mortises and make floating tenons! #flairww -6:40 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks My crevice nozzle, very conveniently, is a friction fit in the 1/2″ wide mortises. #flairww -6:41 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks So the mortises I cut with my Milwaukee were 2-1/2″ deep and the mortises cut with my Bosch were only 2-1/8″ deep. #flairww -6:50 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m going to extend the bit further out of the collet (still with a full 1″ in the collet) and make the mortises deeper. #flairww -6:51 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Okay, NOW the routing is done. #flairww -7:05 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Like my Milwaukee, my Bosch also has a spring-loaded plunge lock. It’s not as stiff as the Milwaukee, but my thumb’s still sore.#flairww -7:06 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I found some maple for the floating tenons. The next step is to plane it to the correct thickness. #flairww -7:12 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks To ensure the floating tenons were the right thickness, I planed a test piece ahead of the good stock. #flairww -7:59 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I then used the bandsaw to define the tenons. I’ll use a fret saw to finish the job. #flairww -8:00 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks But first… dinner! #flairww -8:00 PM Apr 30th, 2012

woodshaver101 @FlairWoodworks that should hold good.  -8:32 PM Apr 30th, 2012

woodshaver101 @FlairWoodworks about 5 min I’m a mortise cutting mad man -8:33 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks That is really fast! Can you take a video? RT @woodshaver101: @FlairWoodworks about 5 min I’m a mortise cutting mad man -8:38 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m back in the shop finishing off the floating, haunched tenons. #flairww -9:04 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Here is one tenon complete and partially dry-fit. It’s a friction fit and will be a struggle to remove. #flairww -9:24 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve got the second floating haunched tenon cut as well. I think they need to be a bit thinner though. #flairww -9:39 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I ran the tenons through the thickness sander a few times to get it to the perfect thickness. #flairww -9:55 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks That’s a big tenon! It makes XL Dominos look diminutive.#flairww -10:03 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now I get to put the two halves back together for a dry fit with the tenons! This is EXCITING! #flairww -10:07 PM Apr 30th, 2012

gvmcmillan @FlairWoodworks I always like dry fitting time – it’s when you really get to see if it’s going to work and what it will look like. #flairww -10:09 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @gvmcmillan I’m excited and nervous. Will my deadblow hammer be seeing a lot of work? #flairww -10:11 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks you even make tenons outta slabs! :) nah no heavy work with the deadblow… you’ve thought of everything (I think :) #flairww -10:13 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy Hey – this isn’t doll furniture! #flairww -10:15 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The deadblow hammer is for scale. If this doesn’t impress you, I want to see what you do! #flairww -10:17 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The first joint went together easily…. #flairww -10:19 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The second side is going to need some clamping pressure.#flairww -10:21 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I wish I had some really big clamps right now. #flairww -10:23 PM Apr 30th, 2012

luggermatt @FlairWoodworks Ratchet strap around the end? -10:24 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks If it comes to that, maybe… #flairww RT @luggermatt:@FlairWoodworks Ratchet strap around the end? -10:25 PM Apr 30th, 2012

luggermatt @FlairWoodworks I use them a lot on the boat. Good for ‘encouraging’ big joints into place ;-) -10:26 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks With one slab butted against my workbench which was butted against the wall, I was able to use my deadblow to close the joint. – 10:29 PM Apr 30, 2012

FlairWoodworks Next, the countertop connectors are installed and tightened.#flairww -10:35 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Then the battens are reinstalled… #flairww -10:40 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I feel like a kid on Christmas day! #flairww -10:40 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks The dry-fit tenons worked brilliantly. There’s no more than a paper’s thickness in deviation between the two slabs on the surface. #flairww-10:45 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now… should I glue it? #flairww -10:45 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m going to clean up the shop while I ponder that. #flairww-10:46 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks yes :) #flairww -10:46 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks You’re probably right. Might be an intense glue-up! I’ll have to get some slow-cure glue. RT @HalfInchShy: @FlairWoodworks yes :)#flairww -10:47 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks Oh definitely a slow cure; do you have a slow-cure epoxy? #flairww -10:48 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks 5-minute? Um… no. RT @HalfInchShy: @FlairWoodworks Oh definitely a slow cure; do you have a slow-cure epoxy? #flairww -10:49 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks Glue the tenons into one slab then you can take your time to get the other in position; wet w/glue slab 2s mortises #flairww-10:56 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks once in position but before pushing together, apply glue to the tenons then push like hell, man! #flairww -10:56 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy That’s definitely how I’d do it! #flairww -10:58 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks I hear my neighbors chanting ‘Chris!’ ‘Chris!’ ‘Chris!’ I think they want to see glue-up. Man up. :) #flairww -10:59 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy Oh, you…. #flairww -10:59 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks It was either that or a Canucks joke… #flairww-11:00 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks @HalfInchShy I don’t think I actually need a slow-curing glue, thought it could make it less stressful if I have trouble. #flairww -11:01 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks On edge, the table is up to my chest! #flairww -11:03 PM Apr 30th, 2012

luggermatt @FlairWoodworks Jolly good :-) -11:03 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks Then do your other idea and mix your own TB Extended; first slab do as usual; second wet mortises with TB-Ex #flairww -11:03 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks When you wet the tenons just before pushing it together, use normal TB; home-brew extended wont skin in the mortise#flairww -11:04 PM Apr 30th, 2012

HalfInchShy @FlairWoodworks Get your brother to snap a pic of the table on edge with you behind it or peeking through the center #flairww -11:04 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks It’s not so easy to get this spring-loaded plunge-lock lever back reinstalled! #flairww -11:34 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks Okay, it wasn’t that hard – it just took some lateral thinking.#flairww -11:36 PM Apr 30th, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m done in the shop for the night. Now for some video and blog editing. #flairww -11:45 PM Apr 30th, 2012

The top is nearing completion.  The legs and feet have yet to be started.  What’s next?  In Session 10, I began work on the legs!

I would be delighted if you left a comment.

Small Ash Side Table

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6

At 11:45 am on Saturday, December 17, I decided that I would make a small table as a Christmas gift.  I documented my process live on Twitter and what you see below are the updates.  This was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, the @ symbol indicates a username.  Every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username and they are the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you will see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are people the author is talking to.  The other symbol you will see is #, which serves as a category.  I tried to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

Saturday, December 17:  5-1/2 hours

  • @FlairWoodworks: I’m going to try to design and build a table today, starting right now. Follow along with hash tag #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:48 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: The first step will be to find some cool wood. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:48 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: This odd piece looks to be the right height for legs. I’m thinking pedestal. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:51 am
  • @gvmcmillan: @FlairWoodworks Good luck cutting that safely!
    December 17, 2011, 11:54 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: Smoothing the power-carved surfaces with a hand plane.
    December 17, 2011, 12:24 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I’d like to use this piece for the base and top of the table. #flairww (I later changed my mind and used the part marked “BASE” for the top and vise-versa.)
    December 17, 2011, 12:46 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: You didn’t think this was going to be just another table, did you? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 12:48 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I cut a clean surface on the end of the leg with my sliding tablesaw. How would you do this? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:07 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks I’d have done something similar with my Excalibur sliding table. #Flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:15 pm
  • @BobbyHagstrom: @FlairWoodworks Probably with a sled as I don’t have a sliding T-saw :( hehe… I’ve done stuff like that freehand-lots o’ clean up #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:20 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I need to glue two pieces together to make a wide, more stable base. Note the chalk alignment lines.
    December 17, 2011, 1:32 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks Nice grain alignment. #Flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:37 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Come on, glue. Hurry up and dry! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:48 pm
  • @MansFineFurn: @FlairWoodworks ash?
    December 17, 2011, 1:51 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @MansFineFurn Ash!
    December 17, 2011, 1:51 pm
  • @gvmcmillan: @FlairWoodworks Without a sliding table saw, I would have used my compound miter chop saw. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lunchtime! The glue ought to be dry enough to continue work when I return. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 2:21 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Any questions so far? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 2:24 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lunch is done and the glue dry enough to flatten the table’s base.
    December 17, 2011, 3:03 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I need to cut a notch in the upright (leg) to receive the top. This is probably the most challenging part.
    December 17, 2011, 3:48 pm
  • @MansFineFurn: @FlairWoodworks are you winging it or do you have a design?
    December 17, 2011, 3:51 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: With a saw cut to establish each shoulder, I use a chisel and mallet to clear the waste.
    December 17, 2011, 3:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @MansFineFurn I’m designing it as I build. This is fun! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 3:54 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I used my side rabbet plane to clean up the sawed surfaces and adjust the angle.
    December 17, 2011, 4:00 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: That’s a good fit! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 4:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here’s the other side of the joint. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 4:13 pm
  • @TheGravedigger: @FlairWoodworks That did well.
    December 17, 2011, 4:14 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The top looks too thick so I’m going to taper it out towards the edge. I tilted my bandsaw table for this cut.
    December 17, 2011, 4:22 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The bandsawn surface is pretty flat. The burn marks are from when I hesitated feeding the board.
    December 17, 2011, 4:25 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: A few minutes with a handplane removed the milling and burn marks and reestablished a flat top.
    December 17, 2011, 4:28 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The upright is secured to the upright with a pair of long lag bolts.
    December 17, 2011, 4:43 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Sorry I’ve been forgetting to add the #flairww tag.
    December 17, 2011, 4:44 pm
  • @sharpendwood: @FlairWoodworks Cool idea, enjoying watching your progress.
    December 17, 2011, 4:57 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @sharpendwood Well, sculpting is the next step. I will wait until daylight before using my angle grinder to carve the upright. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 5:13 pm

Sunday December 18:  3-1/2 hours

  • @FlairWoodworks: After I finish lunch, I’ll be back in the shop working on the table I started yesterday. Follow along with #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 11:55 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: I’m using my angle grinder to sculpt the table’s upright. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 12:20 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Smoothing out the rough-carved surface is going quickly with 80-grit on my Mirka CEROS random orbit sander.
    December 18, 2011, 8:44 pm
  • @ArtsConnectBC: RT @flairwoodworks: After I finish lunch, I’ll be back in the shop working on the table I started yesterday. Follow along with #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 1:02 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Preliminary sanding with 80-grit is done. Now on to fine grits. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 1:02 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The upright has been sanded to 180-grit. I’ll finish sand the top now.
    December 18, 2011, 9:21 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here’s the table assembled. I just need to shape the base. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 2:01 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks Right, Chris. I look forward to *yours*, though. I like what I see, but cannot imagine what the hole’s function is.
    December 18, 2011, 2:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @woodbard hole? You mean the pencil holder? :) (It’s actually just a knot hole.)
    December 18, 2011, 2:13 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks I knew the hole would be a critical part of that table. Thanks!
    December 18, 2011, 2:23 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks Pretty darn cool, Chris!!
    December 18, 2011, 2:29 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: In classic Chris fashion, I carved the edges of the base to follow the grain. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 2:43 pm
  • @DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks looks good, Chris.
    December 18, 2011, 10:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I plugged the screw holes. Can you see them? #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:06 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks Juuuussssttt barely, and ONLY with image blown up,Chris. Wonderful job matching the grain with the plugs!!! #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:09 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Time for a final inspection before the application of the finish. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:11 pm
  • @JC_McGrath: @FlairWoodworks barely for sure, excellent match
    December 18, 2011, 3:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here is the table with one coat of lacquer. I’ll give it a light sanding followed by a couple more coats. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:27 pm
  • @ed_elizondo: @FlairWoodworks That durn good work.
    December 18, 2011, 3:31 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lacquer and shellac are my two preferences when I need a quick-drying finish. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:31 pm
  • @DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks just faintly. Would have missed them if I wasn’t specifically looking. Well done.
    December 18, 2011, 3:52 pm
  • @HighRockWW: @FlairWoodworks cool table Chris, I like it.
    December 19, 2011, 4:37 pm
  • @Tooltutor: @FlairWoodworks that’s a sweet table! Can’t even see the plugs.
    December 19, 2011, 6:38 pm

Some Pictures of the Completed Table

Your Feedback is Appreciated!

What did you think of this Tweet Along?  Would you like to see more?  Please leave your thoughts about the project, process, and method of documentation below in the comments section.

From Chair to Table, Literally

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1
Dave Kilpatrick is the kind of guy who hates to see wood go to waste. So when he heard that six solid-walnut chairs were being tossed out, he offered to take them. His wife must have been thrilled when he brought them home. Anyhow, they ended up in my garage where I let them sit while I figured out what I could do with them. The style was horribly dated, and I decided that they had no future as chairs so I asked my brother to knock them apart. This is what I ended up with:

So, I thought, what could I do with a bunch of nice walnut sticks? I figured that I had enough to make a table top, so I started there. I dressed the sticks using my bandsaw, tablesaw, and thickness planer and carefully laid them out so that no seams lined up and so that the grain ran in all the same direction for ease of later surfacing. I went and had dinner, then came back to do the glue-up. I started by covering a sheet of flat 3/4" plywood with kraft paper to protect my nice plywood from glue. The stiff plywood served as a surface to do the glue-up on, and one which the glued top could be clamped to to ensure it stays relatively flat. I got out my bottle of liquid hide glue and for curiousity’s sake, started the timer I keep in my shop. I applied worked quickly and calmly, applying glue to every mating surface then rubbing the mating surfaces together until the glue grabbed. It was a long glue-up, with 61 pieces. 90 minutes later, I put the last clamp on before washing my hands and cleaning up the shop.

I let the assembly dry for 24 hours before removing the clamps. I used handplanes to flatten and smooth the top starting with a scrub plane before progressing to a jack plane and smooth plane. I flattened the bottom with the scrub and finished the less-critical surface with the jack plane. The top looked stellar, but I had one minor problem: The chairs had been joined with dowels. I had been careful to make sure none of these dowels showed on the top surface, but it couldn’t be avoided around the edges. And the bottom was riddled with holes, but thankfully not enough to be a structural issue. I had considered running banding around the outside of the table, but ruled that out as it would make the table look like it was veneered. I decided to rout a groove along the four edges of the top and insert a strip of maple to cover the holes. It worked like a charm. After milling the groove, I planed the maple for a friciton fit in the groove. To simplify the corner joinery, I used three pieces of maple along each edge – one at either corner and one in the center. 45-degree miters went on the end towards the corner and a 5-degree miter went on the opposite end. I cut the miters in the corners first and installed the eight pieces. I then measured the length of the four center pieces directly off of the table, then cut them a little long at 5 degrees. This little detail ensured that no gaps would show. I realized afterwards that by cutting them a little long, I had inadvertently created an interesting design feature, a sort of keystone, if you will. Though I had initially planned on planing them flush, I decided to leave them proud. With the desk’s top almost done, I used a card scraper on the top surface to give it the final smoothing. Here’s what the scraped surface looked like. Note that this is a bare scraped surface with absolutely nothing on it – no finish or anything. This is why I love my planes and scrapers.

No matter how nice the top looks, a table is not a table without a base. A few years ago, I had started building a desk but abandoned the project for some reason. I had rough-shaped the legs with an eighth-twist in them using a drawknife, then stopped. I liked the look of them – simple, tapered legs with a bit of a twist (pun intended). I dusted them off and finished making them using a spokeshave followed by a card scraper. It’s so nice having a patternmaker’s vise. I use the tilt and rotation features daily. I get a fair bit of use of the skew-able front jaw too. And of course, the quick-release foot-pedal on this vise gets a workout every day. To shape the legs, I tilted the vise up a bit so that I was working on a level surface and supported the far end with a cut-to-length bench slave.

Using some of the wider walnut pieces, I made the aprons for the table. They were long enough to make the side aprons from one piece, but the front and back apron needed to be made from three pieces. I glued them up and added a glue block along the length on the inside to reinforce the long aprons. I cut a concave curve along the bottom edge of the front apron and added maple trim to the bottom edge of each apron to cover the screw holes and visually tie the aprons to the top. I assembled the base, then finished the top and base separately with an oil/varnish blend. Once the finish dried, I attached the top to the base.

Mixing Small Amounts of Epoxy

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Quite often, I need to mix small amounts of epoxy. I’ve found the best way to mix it is to get a small, flat scrap of wood (about six square inches is usually ample). Then I squeeze out one bead of resin and one of hardener on the board. I’ve found that this is a really easy way to get even amounts of each part. If you are using epoxy with a ratio of 2:1, simply squeeze out two beads of the one, and one bead of the other. Then I drag these polypropylene glue spreaders through the two bead, perpendicularly until the colour is even. I use the spreader to apply the epoxy where it’s needed (or a toothpick if the spreader’s too large). Then, I let the epoxy dry. When dry, I just toss the now-epoxy-coated scrap wood in the garbage, and flex the spreader the pop off the epoxy.

The Fine Art of Sticking Two Pieces of Wood Together

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Woodworkers use clamps for many tasks, but most importantly for clamping work together while the glue sets. Some clamps, like spring clamps are fairly weak and apply about 35 lbs of force. At the other end of the scale, heavy duty bar clamps can exert up to 6800 lbs, and C-clamps can exert well over 7500 lbs. So how much pressure should you put on a glue-up? The answer: it depends. Obviously, you don’t want to put so much pressure on that you crush the wood fibers. And scrap pieces of wood, called cauls, are very useful in distributing pressure and avoiding fiber-crushing. But how much pressure really depends on what type of glue you are using.

The most commonly used glue in woodworking is PVA, or polyvinyl acetate. Examples of PVA glues are white glue or yellow (carpenter’s) glue. These glues are entirely synthetic and bond wood very well. Hide glue has been the traditional glue used in woodworking and it has many benefits that can be credited for its continued use today. Other glues used in woodworking include epoxy and cyanoacrylate (Super Glue). If glue and clamped well, the glue line will in fact be stronger than the wood itself. To test how strong your glue joint is, try gluing to pieces of wood together, edge to edge. Once the glue has dried, break the two boards apart. If you are good, the wood adjacent to the glue line will fail, often along the grain, so part of one board will remain bonded to the other. If your joint was weak, the two pieces will separate along the glue line.

So how do you create a strong glue joint? Well, it starts with proper glue application. With PVAs, you really can’t use too much glue. Well, you can over-apply PVA, but you won’t create a weaker joint – you will only make more clean-up for yourself later. While it is better to have too much than too little, it isn’t hard to get the right amount of glue in the joint.

We will use, for example, gluing two boards edge-to-edge. The long grain (edge or face) of a board creates a much stronger bond than end grain. Any joint involving the end grain should be reinforced if it needs to endure any stresses. The first step in a successful glue up, as with anything, is proper preparation. The two edges should fit well, with no light visible between them, which signals gaps. True, the mighty clamps are able to close some small gaps, but I don’t like to rely on them for that too much. But some woodworkers do, and they in fact take advantage of this and create what is known as a sprung joint. A sprung joint is made with two slightyly concave edges, so that the ends touch, but there is a slight gap in the middle. The great benefit of this is that fewer clamps are needed to hold the joint together (as few as one!). Once you’ve prepared the mating edges, it is wise to do a dry run. That is, to put the joint together, in clamps but without the glue. Just to make sure that everything works as it should. It also gets your clamps set to the right opening, making for a more efficient glue up. Glue ups are one of the most stressful parts of woodworking, right up there with finishing. It’s the pressure of time, knowing you only have so long before it starts to set. Now you’re ready to apply glue. Run a bead of PVA down the center of the board from end to end. For 3/4" stock, I find that a 1/8" wide bead of glue is about right. I also start and stop the bead about 2" from either end. For thicker stock, I run the bead in a zig-zag pattern down the edge. Then it’s time to spread the glue. For narrow surfaces, I just use my finger, running it up and down the edge looking for even glue coverage over the entire surface, from end to end. For wider surfaces, I use a the long edge of a 4"x3" piece of 1/8" plywood. Then do the same for the mating edge. Put the two boards together and slide them back and forth against each other a few times. You will notice that in doing so, a sort of hydraulic lock – there will be more resistance to sliding. Put the boards in the clamps and tighten the clamps either from the center outwards or from one end to the other. It’s not good practice to clamp from the ends towards the center. I find that PVA glues work best with a zero-thickness glue line, so I apply as much pressure as I can comfortably. Use lots of clamps. As you apply clamping pressure, watch that the boards stay properly aligned with each other. You may use either dowels or biscuits to aid in alignment, but I have gotten into the habit of gluing up before the final surfacing, so minor misalignments aren’t a big deal. Once the clamps are applied, you should ideally see little beads of glue on the surface all along the glue line. This means that you used the right amount of glue. Some woodworkers like to clean up the squeeze-out right away with a damp cloth, but I feel the best way is to wait for the glue to semi-harden to a rubbery consistency. Then it is easy to remove without making a mess using a chisel. Sometimes, I also wait for the glue to dry completely, then scrape it off. This works well on hard woods, but on softer wood, it tends to take pieces of wood with the glue resulting in what looks like tearout.

If you are using hide glue, your procedure will be different. Sprung joints don’t work very well because you don’t use clamps! Instead, go for perfect fit between the two mating edges. Then apply a thin layer of hide glue to both edges, just enough to cover the surface. Then let it dry. Now apply the glue to one surface as we did with the PVA. Don’t apply any more glue to the other edge. Put the two edges together and rub them together, back and forth to distribute the glue evenly along the entire joint and to create that hydraulic lock. Then set the glue up aside. No clamps, no nothing. That’s it.

Durability Shmurability

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It would be great if it were possible to build a piece of furniture that would last for generations without any need for repair.

Unfortunately, that’s not the case.

Fortunately, there are glues and finishes which are easy to repair. Available are animal based glues such as hide or fish glues. They create a strong, rigid bond yet readily disassemble for repair with steam. What’s more, they don’t require all the old glue to be removed for a good bond, like PVAs do.

Of course, in some situations, such as in a bathroom or outdoors where heat and/or moisture are likely to be present, these glues are not ideal; a waterproof adhesive would be a better choice. In this situation, you are compromising ease of repairability for longevity. Not a bad trade-off.

Many high-tech finishes like polyurethane or epoxy coatings are extremely durable. However, should any damage be inflicted, they are difficult to repair, requiring the finish to be completely stripped before reapplication.

Age-old finishes such as lacquer, shellac, and oils are easy to fix, often requiring only a cleansing followed by another coat of finish.