Flat-Top Ripping Blade is King

Freud’s 24-tooth Heavy Duty Rip Blade (LM72M010) is what is installed in my table saw 90% of the time.  The blade has 24 teeth 0.126″ wide, ground flat on the top and pitched forwards at 20 degrees.  These characteristics make it the most versatile and most used saw blade in my shop.

Heavy Duty Rip Blade - Technical Specifications (from FreudTools.com) K= Kerf; P= Plate Thickness

As you would expect, this blade excels at ripping.  The 20-degree forward (positive) hook angle makes feeding stock past the blade easier and the blade leaves two clean surfaces requiring little, if any, further clean-up.  This blade also does a formidable job with cross-cuts too, especially when freshly sharpened.  (When I need a super-clean crosscut, I take the time to switch to a dedicated crosscut blade.)

For a 10″ circular saw, 24 teeth is not very many (they may have as few as four or as many as 90).  Having few teeth allows quicker, more aggressive cutting.  The trade-off is that the blade will tend to leave a rougher cut than a blade with more teeth.  In some cases, using a slower feed rate increases the quality of cut.  In other cases it only causes burning.

Freud Heavy Duty Rip Blade

The flat-top blade is useful for joinery.  Non-through cuts have square shoulders and flat bottoms, making cleanup unnecessary.  The blade has a regular kerf that is 0.126″ wide, just a little over 1/8″ (1/8″=0.125″).  This is 20% thicker than a thin-kerf blade which typically removes 3/32″ (0.09375″).  While a thicker kerf means it turns more wood into sawdust and requires more power to spin, it also means that only three passes are required to cut a 3/8″ wide groove versus four with a thin-kerf blade.

In addition to making joinery more convenient to cut, set-up is also quicker and easier.  Because each tooth is the same, the top or edge of any tooth can be referenced for accurate set-ups.  Another benefit to the tooth shape, which distributes the cutting duty over a wider surface, is that the teeth are also very durable and as a result, I need to have the blade sharpened less often.

There is a lot more information on saw blades on the Carbide Processors Inc. website.

My Tall Workbench with Flair

This bench was inspired after the Joinery Bench that Shannon Rogers brought to Woodworking in America.  It was intended to simply be a taller workbench and I honestly did not know how useful I would find it (ask me in half a year).

This small bench was built taller than normal (39.5″) to allow joinery to be cut at a more comfortable height – no more bending over to see your scribe lines.  I built the base using drawbored mortise and tenon joinery.  The bench was made of Western maple.

Tall Workbench Assembled

All the joints were drawbored mortise and tenons.  I used my drill press and chisels to cut the mortises and cut the tenons with my bandsaw and tuned them with my shoulder plane and chisels.

Mortise and Tenon

In this video, I demonstrated how I shaped and installed drawbore pegs while discussing why drawbored mortise and tenon joints are effective.  Listen how the sound changes as the peg encounters the offset hole in the stretcher’s tenon.  (Duration:  1:27.)

To keep the build simple, I only did what was necessary.  The faces of the legs were left rough-sawn and the back of the bench top still bears a live edge.  The bench top was attached to the base with four lag bolts in oversized holes to allow for expansion.  No glue was used.

In this second video, I showed how I used my sliding table saw to straighten one edge, then crosscut the two adjacent edges square.  (Duration:  3:09.)

The bench itself required 13 hours to construct and the Moxon Vise with Flair required another two hours.

Tall Workbench

What do you think of my 13-hour Tall Workbench with Flair?

Quite a few other bloggers are documenting (or have documented) the building of their workbenches.  You can read about their benches by following these links:

(If I have missed your bench build, please leave a link in the comments section.)

Wall Brackets for Hollow Chisel Mortiser

Yesterday, at 2:05 pm, I decided that I needed to get my benchtop mortiser off my bench.  I documented the process of building and mounting wall brackets live on Twitter and what you see below are the updates.  This was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, the @ symbol indicates a username.  Every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username and they are the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you will see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you will see is #, which serves as a category.  I tried to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

@FlairWoodworks: I need a pair of brackets to mount my mortiser on the wall here. Follow along with #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:05 pm

@FlairWoodworks: This is my mortiser. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:06 pm

@FlairWoodworks: These are some hardwood scraps I had in the shop. The wood on the right is interesting but there isn’t enough. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:13 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I use a short fence on my sliding tablesaw to cut the parts to length. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:17 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I used the jointer to flatten one face, then used the bandsaw to make the other face parallel. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:22 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I used the smallest of my seven bench planes to clean up the bandsawn surfaces. This wasn’t really necessary though.
January 10, 2012, 2:34 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I dry-fit the bracket and marked the cuts for the cross-brace. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:38 pm

@FlairWoodworks: Some of the cuts for the cross braces were angles greater than 45 degrees. This is how I cut them. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:50 pm

@DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks great, simple strategy.
January 10, 2012, 2:50 pm

@FlairWoodworks: Here’s your first look at what they will look. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:52 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I’m using 8mm Dominoes for the joinery so I had to switch the bits from the last time I used the Domino Joiner. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 2:56 pm

@FlairWoodworks: To get this mortise accurately cut, I clamped a stop 10mm down from the centerline. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 3:08 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I forgot to readjust the depth setting for the angled ends. I’ll plug this cavity with a Domino and try again. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 3:14 pm

@FlairWoodworks: One glued up! #flairww
January 10, 2012, 3:26 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I use Extractor nail pullers to remove the Dominoes after dry-fitting. #flairww
January 10, 2012, 3:41 pm

@DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks good idea. I use pliers.
January 10, 2012, 3:55 pm

@FlairWoodworks: @DyamiPlotke The jaws of the Extractors remain parallel for a better grip.
January 10, 2012, 3:56 pm

@DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks yeah. I’ll try an extractor next time.
January 11, 2012, 4:00 pm

@FlairWoodworks: The glue is dry now so it’s time to continue making the brackets for wall-mount the hollow chisel mortiser.
January 11, 2012, 5:20 pm

@FlairWoodworks: The next step is to flush up the joints. #flairww
January 11, 2012, 5:22 pm

@FlairWoodworks: If the brackets are out of square, I use the tablesaw to cut them square. #flairww
January 11, 2012, 5:34 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I drilled two angled holes at the top and one straight at the bottom. #flairww
January 11, 2012, 5:45 pm

@FlairWoodworks: I attach one bracket at the measured height on the wall and use a level to determine the vertical placement of the second.
January 11, 2012, 5:58 pm

@FlairWoodworks: Finally, I hefted the mortiser onto the brackets and bolted it down. #flairww
January 11, 2012, 6:16 pm

@woodbard: @FlairWoodworks Well done, Chris! The mortiser has found a permanent home, out of the way of other tools. Support planned for long boards?
January 11, 2012, 6:20 pm

@FlairWoodworks: @woodbard And it only took two months! When I need outfeed support, I will probably just set up a sawhorse.
January 11, 2012, 6:24 pm

Small Ash Side Table

At 11:45 am on Saturday, December 17, I decided that I would make a small table as a Christmas gift.  I documented my process live on Twitter and what you see below are the updates.  This was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, the @ symbol indicates a username.  Every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username and they are the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you will see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are people the author is talking to.  The other symbol you will see is #, which serves as a category.  I tried to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

Saturday, December 17:  5-1/2 hours

  • @FlairWoodworks: I’m going to try to design and build a table today, starting right now. Follow along with hash tag #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:48 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: The first step will be to find some cool wood. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:48 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: This odd piece looks to be the right height for legs. I’m thinking pedestal. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 11:51 am
  • @gvmcmillan: @FlairWoodworks Good luck cutting that safely!
    December 17, 2011, 11:54 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: Smoothing the power-carved surfaces with a hand plane.
    December 17, 2011, 12:24 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I’d like to use this piece for the base and top of the table. #flairww (I later changed my mind and used the part marked “BASE” for the top and vise-versa.)
    December 17, 2011, 12:46 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: You didn’t think this was going to be just another table, did you? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 12:48 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I cut a clean surface on the end of the leg with my sliding tablesaw. How would you do this? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:07 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks I’d have done something similar with my Excalibur sliding table. #Flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:15 pm
  • @BobbyHagstrom: @FlairWoodworks Probably with a sled as I don’t have a sliding T-saw :( hehe… I’ve done stuff like that freehand-lots o’ clean up #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:20 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I need to glue two pieces together to make a wide, more stable base. Note the chalk alignment lines.
    December 17, 2011, 1:32 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks Nice grain alignment. #Flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:37 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Come on, glue. Hurry up and dry! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:48 pm
  • @MansFineFurn: @FlairWoodworks ash?
    December 17, 2011, 1:51 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @MansFineFurn Ash!
    December 17, 2011, 1:51 pm
  • @gvmcmillan: @FlairWoodworks Without a sliding table saw, I would have used my compound miter chop saw. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 1:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lunchtime! The glue ought to be dry enough to continue work when I return. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 2:21 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Any questions so far? #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 2:24 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lunch is done and the glue dry enough to flatten the table’s base.
    December 17, 2011, 3:03 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I need to cut a notch in the upright (leg) to receive the top. This is probably the most challenging part.
    December 17, 2011, 3:48 pm
  • @MansFineFurn: @FlairWoodworks are you winging it or do you have a design?
    December 17, 2011, 3:51 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: With a saw cut to establish each shoulder, I use a chisel and mallet to clear the waste.
    December 17, 2011, 3:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @MansFineFurn I’m designing it as I build. This is fun! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 3:54 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I used my side rabbet plane to clean up the sawed surfaces and adjust the angle.
    December 17, 2011, 4:00 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: That’s a good fit! #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 4:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here’s the other side of the joint. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 4:13 pm
  • @TheGravedigger: @FlairWoodworks That did well.
    December 17, 2011, 4:14 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The top looks too thick so I’m going to taper it out towards the edge. I tilted my bandsaw table for this cut.
    December 17, 2011, 4:22 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The bandsawn surface is pretty flat. The burn marks are from when I hesitated feeding the board.
    December 17, 2011, 4:25 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: A few minutes with a handplane removed the milling and burn marks and reestablished a flat top.
    December 17, 2011, 4:28 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The upright is secured to the upright with a pair of long lag bolts.
    December 17, 2011, 4:43 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Sorry I’ve been forgetting to add the #flairww tag.
    December 17, 2011, 4:44 pm
  • @sharpendwood: @FlairWoodworks Cool idea, enjoying watching your progress.
    December 17, 2011, 4:57 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @sharpendwood Well, sculpting is the next step. I will wait until daylight before using my angle grinder to carve the upright. #flairww
    December 17, 2011, 5:13 pm

Sunday December 18:  3-1/2 hours

  • @FlairWoodworks: After I finish lunch, I’ll be back in the shop working on the table I started yesterday. Follow along with #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 11:55 am
  • @FlairWoodworks: I’m using my angle grinder to sculpt the table’s upright. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 12:20 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Smoothing out the rough-carved surface is going quickly with 80-grit on my Mirka CEROS random orbit sander.
    December 18, 2011, 8:44 pm
  • @ArtsConnectBC: RT @flairwoodworks: After I finish lunch, I’ll be back in the shop working on the table I started yesterday. Follow along with #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 1:02 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Preliminary sanding with 80-grit is done. Now on to fine grits. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 1:02 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: The upright has been sanded to 180-grit. I’ll finish sand the top now.
    December 18, 2011, 9:21 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here’s the table assembled. I just need to shape the base. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 2:01 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks Right, Chris. I look forward to *yours*, though. I like what I see, but cannot imagine what the hole’s function is.
    December 18, 2011, 2:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: @woodbard hole? You mean the pencil holder? :) (It’s actually just a knot hole.)
    December 18, 2011, 2:13 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks I knew the hole would be a critical part of that table. Thanks!
    December 18, 2011, 2:23 pm
  • @Tumblewood: @FlairWoodworks Pretty darn cool, Chris!!
    December 18, 2011, 2:29 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: In classic Chris fashion, I carved the edges of the base to follow the grain. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 2:43 pm
  • @DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks looks good, Chris.
    December 18, 2011, 10:53 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: I plugged the screw holes. Can you see them? #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:06 pm
  • @woodbard: @FlairWoodworks Juuuussssttt barely, and ONLY with image blown up,Chris. Wonderful job matching the grain with the plugs!!! #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:09 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Time for a final inspection before the application of the finish. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:11 pm
  • @JC_McGrath: @FlairWoodworks barely for sure, excellent match
    December 18, 2011, 3:12 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Here is the table with one coat of lacquer. I’ll give it a light sanding followed by a couple more coats. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:27 pm
  • @ed_elizondo: @FlairWoodworks That durn good work.
    December 18, 2011, 3:31 pm
  • @FlairWoodworks: Lacquer and shellac are my two preferences when I need a quick-drying finish. #flairww
    December 18, 2011, 3:31 pm
  • @DyamiPlotke: @FlairWoodworks just faintly. Would have missed them if I wasn’t specifically looking. Well done.
    December 18, 2011, 3:52 pm
  • @HighRockWW: @FlairWoodworks cool table Chris, I like it.
    December 19, 2011, 4:37 pm
  • @Tooltutor: @FlairWoodworks that’s a sweet table! Can’t even see the plugs.
    December 19, 2011, 6:38 pm

Some Pictures of the Completed Table

Your Feedback is Appreciated!

What did you think of this Tweet Along?  Would you like to see more?  Please leave your thoughts about the project, process, and method of documentation below in the comments section.

Working with Melamine Particle Board

Furniture is what I primarily make, and I think that solid wood is the best choice of materials.  No two pieces are identical, and its consistent nature lends itself well to carving – there is no risk of cutting through one layer into another creating an ugly seam.

But solid wood is not always the best material.  Recently, I made some utilitarian cabinets using melamine-covered particle board.  I don’t know if I’ve ever worked with this material, but over the past few days I became aware of some of its nuances and nuisances.

Like MDF, it is flat.  And heavy.  Sheets of plywood on the other hand are often warped, especially if stored improperly.

Like the veneers on most plywoods, the melamine skin is very thin and chips easily.  I am fortunate to have a scoring blade on my table saw which produces flawless cuts.  Because the scoring blade protrudes above the table by only about 1/16″ or so the material being cut must be flat or the scoring blade won’t do its job.

Joints that are meant to be even have to be even when assembled.  You don’t have much opportunity to flush them afterwards, especially if you’ve already edge-banded them (which is easiest).

Particle board is fragile.  Drop it and a corner will likely be destroyed.  It is not nearly as tough as plywood or solid wood.  It also has less strength, so it can sag even under its own weight if not supported.

White melamine can be clearly marked on with pencil and easily cleaned with a damp cloth.

Pre-glued melamine edging, applied with an iron, is easy to apply.  Use the iron to activate the glue, then press it down with a block of wood to ensure good contact.  Being a hand-plane guy, I used a metal-bodied plane with its blade retracted.  My logic is that the plane is easy to hold and the iron sole acts as a heat sink, quickly cooling down and setting the glue.

If you have a lot of edging to trim, dedicated tools are a good buy.  Otherwise, a plane iron does a good job but is slower.  Tape over part of the edge so that you don’t accidentally scratch the panel.

It’s prefinished, so no extra work is required.  Once it’s edge-banded and assembled, it’s done!

Prefinished means dealing with glue squeeze-out is a snap.  Just pop off the glue with a chisel.  Because glue won’t stick to the slick melamine surface, that means plain butt joints won’t work.  For these cabinets, I used floating tenons.  Screws could have also worked, but would require the holes to be capped later.

More Adjustments on the Sliding Table Saw

Yesterday, I continued setting up my saw. First, I had a 7′ power cord installed. With power to the saw, I performed the test run, ensuring that the saw started and ran smoothly in the right direction and stopped, and checking that the three off switches worked.

There is one mushroom off switch under the fence rail, one in the magnetic switch below the slider facing the front (in the manual, the front of the saw is actually what I normally think of as the side), and one micro switch in the blade cover that is opened when changing the blades or adjusting the riving knife. Everything worked smoothly and the saw sounds powerful. Very nice.Using a dial indicator, I checked the sliding table for parallelism with the blade.

Finding it to be within a few thousandths of an inch, I checked the fence for parallelism with the slider. I found it to be out by over a tenth of an inch, so I spent about half an hour aligning the fence parallel to the blade (actually toed out by a few thousandths.

Unfortunately with this fence system, there is not adjustment for parallel within the fence body. Adjustments are made by adjusting three sets of nuts that hold the fence rail to the front of the table saw. It took about half a dozen adjustments to get the fence where I wanted it. Next, I squared the miter gauge on the slider to the blade. That was an easy task, involving a square. I set the stop – a set screw and a nut that locks it in place.

Next, I installed and set the riving knife. I set it at a height that would allow the blade guard to sit almost above the teeth – the Freud reps advised me that they recommend setting their blades 1/2 a tooth above the stock. I checked that the riving knife was aligned with the right side of the blade and it was.

One thing I had noticed when I had a look at the saw in the showroom was that the front of the blade guard rested on the table and caught on the miter gauge – it would stop dead until the blade guard was manually lifted. I solved that problem by simply tightening down the bolt that locks the blade guard to the riving knife. The other thing that I didn’t really like was that a pin through the guard behind the mounting bolt prevented the blade guard from pivoted back out of the way, as is necessary when changing blades. I drove out the pin with a punch, then lengthened the slot that fits over the riving knife with a hand saw. With the modifications, the blade guard now swings up about 100 degrees.

Scoring blades are small blades located ahead of the main blade. They rotate the opposite direction and are set about 1/8″ or less above the table. Their purpose is to make a cut in from the bottom to eliminate tearout. It should be just a shade wider than the main blade. Too narrow and there will be tearout on at least one edge of the cut. Too wide, and there will be a shoulder in the cut.

Some scoring blades are two pieces and, like a dado blade, their width is set by adding shims between the blades. The scoring blade provided with my saw however, is one piece. So how do you adjust the width of cut made by a single cutter? The teeth are tapered, that’s how – narrower at the top, wider at the base. By raising the scoring blade, the width of the cut is increased.

The other adjustment is lateral alignment with the main blade. I set the lateral position using a straight edge, referencing off the left side of the saw plates and avoiding contact with the teeth which would affect the alignment. To set the blade height (and thus, the width of cut) of the scoring blade, I started by lowering it further than I though would be necessary so that it would take too narrow of a cut, the end result being tearout at the bottom side of the stock.

I did a test cut and found exactly that. I raised the blade a little and tested again, finding that one adjustment to be all that was needed. It sure is a pleasure seeing clean cuts, top and bottom.

Lap Joints

The core of a torsion box is a grid made up of many thin strips of wood.  For my shelves, those strips are 1/2″x3/4″.  I machined the strips for the core using my table saw and thickness planer to ensure they were dimensioned uniformly.  Then I moved to my tablesaw to cut the half lap joints using a dado stack.

Installing the dado stack, I tried to be lazy and not remove the insert to the right side of the saw blade (a sliding table saw is quite different than other table saws in this regard) and found that I could put a 1/2″ dado stack on the arbor and get the arbor nut to thread on enough.  I was happy about that, and proceeded to get ready for a test cut.  However, when I closed the hinged blade cover, I found that it contacted the blade and the saw will not run if the cover is not closed.  I could probably have rigged up something to trick the microswitch into thinking the cover was closed, but that wouldn’t be very safe.  Furthermore, I soon realized that my sliding table wouldn’t clear the dado stack.  Okay, Chris, stop being lazy – you’re wasting your time.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So I removed the dado stack and took out the table insert – it’s attached to the side of the table casting with four machine screws and lock washers.  I also had to remove the riving knife which only works for 10″ blades.  I also removed the spacer on the arbor to allow the dado stack to sit further onto the arbor.

I reinstalled the dado stack.  I am always careful to position the teeth of one blade in the gullets (spaces between the teeth) of the adjacent ones.  Doing this protects the brittle carbide teeth and ensures that the cutters stack properly.  In order to set my dado stack to be precisely as wide as my stock is thick, I built the stack slightly undersize using the two outside blades and inside chippers, then inserted shims between the blades as well to intentionally make the stack too wide.  Then I made a notch in a scrap and tested the fit of one of the strips that would be used for the core.  As expected, the fit was loose.  Here’s the trick:  I then fit shims into the gap until I had a good fit.  The width of the shims inserted represent what I needed to remove from the dado stack to get the perfect fit.  In my case, a 0.020″ and 0.005″ shim filled the gap, so I needed to remove 0.025″ of shims from my dado stack.  Thanks to my friend Charles for showing me this trick.



I removed the necessary shims and then worked on adjusting the depth of cut.  For the half laps, I needed the blade set at exactly half of the stock thickness.  Since the core’s grid is formed with strips on edge, I actually needed to set the blade to half the width of the strips.  I set the blade a little low and made one rabbet cut, then flipped it over and moved it over slightly to make the second rabbet cut.  Since the blade was too low, the two rabbets left some material in the middle.  I raised the blade a little and tried again until it was removed.  Once I had the blade height set, I did a final test fit.

Then it was a simple matter of cutting all the joints.  I set the stop on my sliding table’s crosscut fence and gang-cut the strips six at a time.  To assemble the core, I brought all the pieces to my workbench.  Using a small scrap of wood and my deadblow mallet, I fit all the pieces together.  They would go together with hand pressure, but the mallet makes it easier.  The scrap of wood protects against damage and also helps ensure that all pieces are set as deep as their neighbors.  Once they were put together, I checked them for square and flatness.  To glue the joints together, I used Chair Doctor glue which has a viscosity similar to water.  I simply added a healthy bead at each joint and let it wick down into the joint.  After a few minutes, I flipped the core over and applied glue to the other side.  This was much easier than knocking the joints apart, applying glue, then putting it all back together.