Maple Trestle Table, Session 25 – Completing the Bottom Edge

On the morning of Sunday, April 15th, Morton and I exchanged ideas about trestle tables, spurred on by a recent sketch of a table on which he was working.  That got me yearning to build a trestle table.

I documented my progress live on Twitter which was useful because each update had a time stamp so followers could see the rate at which I progressed.  Here is a list of the previous Sessions:

Session 1 – Flat Boards are Boring;
Session 2 – Playing with Slabs;
Session 3 – From Two Slabs to One Table Top;
Session 4 – Clamping Odd Shapes and Sketching on Wood;
Session 5 – Routing Pockets for Battens;
Session 6 – Making Battens and Installing Countertop Connectors;
Session 7 – Installing Battens and Flattening the Underside;
Session 8 – Make Your Tools Work for You and Flattening the Top;
Session 9 – Mortises the Slow Way (or Why I’m Buying a Domino XL);
Session 10 – Curvy Legs are Always Good;
Session 11 – Straight Lines on Wonky Surfaces;
Session 12 – Fitting the Mother of all Mortise & Tenon Joints;
Session 13 – Making Things Better, Worse, then Better;
Session 14 – Battens and Complicated Tenons, Again;
Session 15 – The Trestle Comes Together Session;
Session 16 – Angled Mortises and Tenons;
Session 17 – Two Feet for Two Legs;
Session 18 – Attachment Strips and Power Carving;
Session 19 – Refining the Sculpted Base;
Session 20 – A Little Sanding, then Lots More Sanding;
Session 21 – Preparing for a Big Glue-Up;
Session 22 – Fitting and Joining the Table Top;
Session 23 – The Bottom of the Top; and
Session 24 – Profiling the Table’s Edge.

(If you are not familiar with the format used on Twitter, every update, or “tweet” below starts with a username, being the author of that tweet.  Sometimes, you see two or more usernames in a tweet.  The second (and third, etc) usernames are preceded by a @ symbol and are people to whom the author is talking.  The other symbol you see is #, which serves as a category.  I try to remember to categorize all my tweets pertaining to this project under #flairww.)

FlairWoodworks Time to get some work done on the Maple Trestle Table! #flairww -10:24 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The table is here somewhere under all this yellow birch#flairww -10:28 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I picked up my Domino XL June 1st. It’s still in the box, unopened. The tenon stock is in the other box. #flairww -10:32 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks To start, I’m going to use my block plane and spokeshave to transform the wide bevel into a roundover. #flairww -10:53 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I first added a low bevel along the edge. #flairww -10:57 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Then, just a little more work with my spokeshave finished shaping this section of the roundover. #flairww -11:00 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I push my spokeshave across the endgrain at a skewed ange for a clean cut. #flairww -11:07 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

roncbailey @FlairWoodworks good to see new photos. I was missing the updates. Can’t wait to see it finished -11:16 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I agree on all points! RT @roncbailey: @FlairWoodworks good to see new photos. I was missing the updates. Can’t wait to see it finished -11:17 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The toe of my spokeshave is too hot to comfortably hold from the friction produced by running it over the wood. #flairww -11:22 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I applied some Boeshield (lubricant) to see if that will reduce the friction which is causing the heat buildup. #flairww-11:23 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The Boeshield did work to reduce friction and heat buildup, but I needed another application just now. #flairww -11:32 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The difficult grain of this section prevented me from using my coarse spokeshave to establish the shape. #flairww -11:36 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I was grateful that the remainder of the edge had milder grain so I could use my coarse spokeshave. #flairww -11:57 AM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks One long edge is now shaped. #flairww -12:08 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Because you don’t have to worry about reversing grain, working end grain is sometimes easier than working long grain. #flairww -12:16 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve got the other end done. Just one long edge remains on the underside. #flairww -12:25 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks is that the top? -12:36 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is the bottom. What do you think of the profile? Would you mirror it on top? #flairww RT @DyamiPlotke:@FlairWoodworks is that the top? -12:36 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Before progressing to the last edge, I mixed some epoxy to fill and solidify this section. #flairww-12:37 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Because of the depth of the void and the shrinkage of epoxy, it will need a second (and possibly third) application. #flairww -12:38 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

tsangell @FlairWoodworks I don’t detect any tint to the epoxy. If it’s clear, that’s also cool because you can see into the void.

FlairWoodworks @tsangell You are correct! #flairww -12:42 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

 FlairWoodworks The top sits on two cabinets with 4″ locking casters which allow it to be moved around with little effort. #flairww -12:43 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks However, when the casters are locked, everything becomes quite immobile. #flairww -12:44 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

DyamiPlotke @FlairWoodworks I like the profile for the bottom. For the top, it might make things prone to sliding off. -12:44 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @DyamiPlotke My thoughts exactly! #flairww -12:44 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

 FlairWoodworks I don’t see any need to fill these cracks with epoxy. #flairww -12:47 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve got the last edge roughly shaped. I’m switching to my fine spokeshave to refine the surface. #flairww -1:09 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks This is how I mix epoxy#flairww -1:21 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks All four edges of the bottom of the tabletop have been shaped. #flairww -1:23 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m walking around the table, running my hand along the edge to feel for variations that need to be blended. #flairww -1:23 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’m using my random orbit sander with the foam interface pad and 80-grit to blend the surfaces. #flairww -1:33 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Make no mistake – it takes considerable effort to get a curve just the way I want it. Flat spots are difficult to remove. #flairww -2:03 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I’ve finished smoothing the first long edge. Hopefully the next three will go more quickly.#flairww -2:21 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I finished smoothing one end. I’m working on the second long edge, trying to eliminate a flat spot. #flairww -2:40 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Just this one section remains to be smoothed. The epoxy is dry so I’ll start that now. #flairww -3:09 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Upon closer examination, the 5-minute epoxy is still a little soft, so I’ll break for lunch. #flairww -3:14 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Before leaving for lunch, I mixed more epoxy to finish filling the void. I used duct tape to make a dam. #flairww -3:23 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Lunch is done and gone. I wonder if the epoxy is cured yet… #flairww -4:22 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The epoxy is not fully hardened yet. The duct tape dam worked perfectly! #flairww -4:23 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I was able to peel back the duct tape easily, leaving behind a smooth surface. #flairww -4:25 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks While the epoxy is curing, I’ll sand the newly-profiled edges with 120-grit paper. #flairww -4:33 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks do you use a shop vac from the underside to help pull the epoxy into the void? (@WoodWhisperer tip) -4:36 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster Nope. Gravity is enough and the glue is thin too. I don’t need full penetration and it’s not a crack that goes through the slab. -4:37 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

Carvingsbysean @FlairWoodworks Chris that is really starting to look awesome! How is your day my friend?

FlairWoodworks @Carvingsbysean Progress is slow but steady so I’m happy. I also had a good lunch so that helps too. How’s your Sunday going? #flairww -4:51 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

Carvingsbysean @FlairWoodworks Pretty good :) want to get some carving done tonight. -4:54 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Suction from my dust extractor seems lower than usual. I’ll check the bag. #flairww -5:19 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks It’s not completely full, but pretty close. I’ll empty it. #flairww -5:21 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks leave [the cracks] be. As long as you don’t think they will spread… -5:23 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks can you reuse Festool bags or are they disposable? -5:24 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

Carvingsbysean @FlairWoodworks I keep my wood shavings and then throw them on my wifes flower gardens. Makes great mulch -5:25 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

Carvingsbysean @FlairWoodworks You can always let friends or family know you have it, hehe they will I am sure come and collect it eagerly :) -5:30 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster You can buy reusable Festool bags but I just use (and reuse) the disposable ones. #flairww -5:33 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks what do you use to “re-close” them? I use duct tape. (Tip courtesy of @TomsWorkbench) -5:35 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster I use little metal clips similar to binder clips. #flairww -5:40 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I replaced the dust extractor bag and the suction has been restored. #flairww -5:42 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks where did you find them? Office supply store? -5:42 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster I got them from Garrett Wade. I looked on their site but couldn’t find it. #flairww -5:43 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster Here’s a link from another supplier. #flairww -5:44 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks While I wait for the epoxy to cure and ponder if I should fill the cracks, I’m going to go do something else. #flairww-5:50 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I installed a Wixey digital readout on my thickness planer while waiting for the epoxy to cure.#flairww -6:44 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The epoxy is still a little soft so I’ll continue pondering what to do with the cracks and voids. #flairww -6:44 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

roncbailey @FlairWoodworks black tinted epoxy for the voids. I’ve been doing a mesquite headboard with that technique. picture when clamps are off

FlairWoodworks @roncbailey How long until the clamps can be removed? #flairww -6:51 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks instead of hiding [the voids], is there a way you can accentuate them? -6:59 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @BCcraftmaster They are not being hid in any way. I just need to stabilize them. That’s all. #flairww -7:00 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

TomsWorkbench @BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks If it moves and it’s not supposed to… duct tape. If it doesn’t and it should, WD-40. -7:01PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @TomsWorkbench Oh, Tom – you’re so helpful. #flairww -7:02 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

TomsWorkbench @FlairWoodworks Someone has to be! ;-) -7:02 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks @TomsWorkbench Do you think this is good enough? ;) #flairww -7:05 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

TomsWorkbench @FlairWoodworks Good enough? Dude, that’s INSPIRED! – 7:06 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

BCcraftmaster @FlairWoodworks @TomsWorkbench just write “fixed” in magic marker on the duct tape and call it a day! -7:11 Jun PM 3rd, 2012

roncbailey @FlairWoodworks overnight. But here is a shot of a leg blank -7:14 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

roncbailey @FlairWoodworks and a sample for finish. The void was all the way through. -7:15 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

tsangell @FlairWoodworks Butterfly dutchman from the same material? Subtle. -7:34 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks That’s what I’m thinking. It’s also the underside. #flairww RT @tsangell: @FlairWoodworks Butterfly dutchman from the same material? Subtle. -7:34 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Still waiting for the glue to harden so I swept and vacuumed the floor. #flairww -7:50 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I made a jig to cut dovetail keys at the bandsaw. #flairww -8:30 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I resawed the dovetail key into three, each a fat 1/2″. I need the top one. I may not need the others. #flairww -8:39 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I use double-sided tape to secure the dovetail key in place while I score the perimeter with a knife. #flairww -8:41 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I remembered to mark which end goes where and which face is exposed. #flairww -8:54 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I drilled out most of the waste with a forstner bit. #flairww -8:54 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I used a chisel to gradually chop back to the knife lines. #flairww -9:03 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Finally, I used my small router plane to flatten the bottom. #flairww -9:12 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I lightly chamfered the underside of the dovetail key with a chisel. I’m ready to install it now. #flairww -9:14 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Now I get to wait for more glue to dry. #flairww -9:25 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The epoxy is finally hard. I’ll finish the edge now. #flairww -9:37 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks I used my block plane to remove most of the epoxy on the surface. #flairww -9:40 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks After levelling the epoxy, I’ll polish the surface with my sander. #flairww -9:43 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks The two small shiny spots are low areas that have not been touched. Just a little more sanding is required. #flairww -9:47 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks Since it’s nearly 10pm, I’m going to stop work in the shop at this point. Thanks for following along with me! #flairww-9:51 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

FlairWoodworks This looks great. I’m very happy with this section. #flairww -9:52 PM Jun 3rd, 2012

Gsharptools @FlairWoodworks looks a great idea [for the dovetail key jig]. Could you spare more detail as that’s one of my next jobs. 500yr old oak dried/split on my table top:-( -3:28 AM Jun 4, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Gsharptools For the cutout, the long angled cut is to the angle of the dovetail and the bottom cut is square to it. That’s all! -9:39 AM Jun 4, 2012

FlairWoodworks @Gsharptools Then, just mark the midpoint in length and saw to that point, flipping and turning the key to make all four cuts. -9:40 AM Jun 4, 2012

Only a little more work remains before I can flip over the table top and finish the top surface!

You can leave a comment here.

5 thoughts on “Maple Trestle Table, Session 25 – Completing the Bottom Edge

  1. The clear epoxy will look great reflecting the inside of that void to the surface. Will only accent that whole area’s grain.

    The roundover looks great.

    Let Domizilla out to stretch his legs a bit…

  2. Hi Chris: Found your site through Lost Art Press and I’m just gobsmacked by the work your doing on the free form maple table. Stayed up till 1:00 A.M. catching up and then got up this morning to follow some more. Curious though as to the feet(?)if any, that are going on the legs. Sled feet? And what sort of finish do you think you’ll use? Awesome! Steve

    • Hi Steve,

      Thanks for your supportive comments.

      The joinery for the feet was cut in Session 16. You can see the feet installed in Session 17 and Session 20 shows the base after sculpting.

      I’m not sure what I’ll use for a finish yet (what else would you expect in a build where nothing else has been planned ahead!). The only thing I’ve ruled out is painting the entire table top. Somebody mentioned dyeing the table top… that could be pretty spectacular.

      Chris

  3. I think that for a professional woodworker (or an amateur who has the money) the Festool Dust Extractor is not really a waste of money when we see what it is capable of, for instance the automatic dust collection while using a power tool, a great time saver.

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