Review of My Grizzly Sliding Table Saw (G0623X)

A few years ago, I was in the market for a new table saw. My decision was between a sliding table saw or a SawStop table saw (you can read more about my decision process in the three articles titled Why a Sliding Table Saw with a Scoring Blade?, Why Not a SawStop? and Benefits of a Sliding Table Saw – links at the bottom of this article). In June 2010, I drove down to Grizzly’s showroom in Bellingham, Washington and had a good look at the G0623X 10″ Sliding Table Saw before ordering one for delivery. By the way, the sticker price on this saw was right around the $3,000 mark. My New Sliding TablesawI have had the saw for four years and have been really happy with my purchase. The saw was larger than my contractor’s saw with a 30″ fence, but the sliding table saw used space so well that I barely noticed a difference.

What’s So Great?

The saw was nicely made and easy to assemble and adjust. Blade changes were a snap with the arbor lock pin.

The sliding table has proven to be very useful for large crosscuts as well as making straight, accurate cuts in both normally- and oddly-shaped parts. On the occasion when I’ve had to work with sheet goods, the 60″ sliding table has been a clear advantage for material support (no infeed or outfeed support required for most cuts). The five horsepower motor had plenty of power to rip thick hardwoods or cut dadoes and the scoring blade produced perfect cuts on the bottom of fine plywood and melamine. When done with the scoring blade, I simply removed it from the arbor, which was much easier than lowering it and resetting it for the next time. IMG_20141105_161634651 When dealing with many small parts such as when I made a batch of Time Warp Tool Works Moulding Planes, I was again able to benefit from the sliding table. I piled the uncut parts on one end of the sliding table, made the required cuts using the middle section of the table, then stacked the cut parts on the other end of the table itself. As I worked, all parts remained on the table which traveled back and forth as a whole, so parts were never in the way or out of arm’s reach at any point. There were two T-slots in the top and one in the edge of the sliding table that allowed the attachment of the outrigger, mitre gauge, and other accessories such as a hold down or handle. They were also useful for storing pencils and rulers (and sawdust!). IMG_20141106_111559925 Because the sliding table extended to within a fraction of an inch of the blade, I could clamp even a small part in place for cutting, then push it through the blade without even being near the part or the blade. Furthermore, the long sliding table encouraged the user to stand to the left of the blade – out of the way of the path of kickback. And yes, the saw has a riving knife too. IMG_20141105_161852448 The outrigger was clamped to the table and could be slid forwards or backwards as desired. A pivoting arm attached to the back of the saw cabinet supported the far end of the outrigger and a threaded adjustment allowed it to be levelled. The crosscut fence offered ample support for almost all cuts, and a pair of flip stops made breaking down stock efficient. IMG_20141105_161326722 The fence could be mounted at either the front or back of the outrigger, and a set of adjustable flip stops ensured that the fence could be set square time and time again. IMG_20141105_161216246 The blade tilt and height were adjusted with two well-made hand wheels with folding handles and centre knobs for locking their setting. They felt nice and worked well.


What’s Lacking?

The mitre scale on the outrigger was a decal with fat lines, so I couldn’t rely on it for accurate angles. Instead, I would use a bevel gauge to set the crosscut fence to the blade. IMG_20141105_161446122 Some of the higher-end sliding table saws had some useful features that this saw did not have, such as the option to lock the sliding table all the way forward for loading, or a switch on the sliding table. Dust collection was fair. There was an additional provision for collecting dust in the blade guard, which I elected to not use. One thing I did find out was that if sawdust was allowed to accumulate between the blade access door and the blade shroud, it prevented the door from closing properly and contacting the microswitch which allowed the saw to run. IMG_20141105_162258788-001 The saw came with a mitre gauge which could be clamped to the sliding table. I always preferred to use the larger crosscut fence and the only time that I used the mitre gauge was if I had removed the outrigger for some reason. This wasn’t really a negative, just a “do I really need this?” accessory.

Modifications and Additions

When the saw arrived in my shop, I couldn’t figure out how to lower the riving knife below the crown of the blade, so I ground some metal off of the back top of the riving knife to allow me to perform non-through cuts. IMG_20141105_161345724 My shop was quite narrow, and the crosscut fence was long, with an extension to allow even wider crosscuts. I decided to cut the aluminum crosscut fence to end where the outrigger ends. When I needed to make cuts between 37 and 74 inches, I could use the extension. (When I cut off the end of the crosscut fence, I also removed the tapped hole for the knob that locks the extension in place, so I needed to drill and tap another hole.) IMG_20141106_111233965 The extension came with a ramped stock support, but since I never cut stock long or flimsy enough to warrant it, I removed it. IMG_20141106_111325957 The crosscut fence was secured to the outrigger with a long, threaded bolt and was tedious to wind in and out when I wanted to install or remove the fence. I solved that by making a simple locking device with a lever-action clamp that fit into a T-slot in the bottom of the crosscut fence. IMG_20141105_161251418 I was glad that I bought a cam-action hold down with the saw. The saw didn’t come with the hold down and they were not sold separately. However, the hold down was included with another saw which has the same size T-slots (1-1/4 x 1/2 inch) so I ordered all the parts and assembled it myself. It wan’t cheap, but it sure was worth the price! IMG_20141106_115049828 Additional resources about this saw are provided in the links below. If you have any other questions, please feel free to submit it in the comments box at the bottom of this article.

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37 thoughts on “Review of My Grizzly Sliding Table Saw (G0623X)

  1. Some good observations Chris!
    As you know I have the exact same saw. Just set mine up about a month ago. Overall I am very happy with mine as well. I agree with your thoughts on the drawbacks – especially on the slider only locking in one place. I wish they put the switch in a more convenient spot.

  2. Thank you for your excellent review with pictures & video of your G0623x saw. I had a couple questions:
    1) Is the lock down clamp you got from another saw available for purchase separately? Or do you have a suggestion for another that is?
    2) Why didn’t you get a 2nd clamp so you could clamp down both ends?
    3) Is there a rail available that goes into the top T slot of the sliding saw and attaches to a very long board to allow rip cuts (clamped against it) longer than the 70 (or so) maximum length?
    4) Why don’t you use the vacuum on the top blade guard? It seems you’d avoid a lot of dust.
    5) Did you hook up a vacuum to the 4″ port from the blade? I assume the blade has a shroud around it that funnels into a hose that goes to the 4″ port, right? I’m just hoping that with both ports hooked up to a good 6″ vacuum unit you’d have great dust collection.


    1. Hi John,

      1) I purchased the hold-down clamp as individual parts from another Grizzly slider that came with one and used the same size T-slats.

      2) I only bought one hold down since I had intended to use it with a ripping shoe, which I was going to make (but haven’t).

      3) The maximum capacity of the slider is about 60″, and I don’t know of a rail accessory to allow longer rip cuts. You could get a saw with a longer sliding table, though!

      4) I don’t use the blade guard with the dust extraction port simply because I’m too lazy to have to remove the guard and lower the riving knife when I want to do a narrow or non-through cut.

      5) I have my dust extractor hooked up to the dust port at the rear of the cabinet. The blade shroud is connected to the port with a 3″ hose (I modified it to accept a 4″ hose, and I’m not sure that it made a difference).


      1. Thanks for your super-prompt reply, Chris!
        I had a few follow up questions:

        1) When you do make a ripping shoe, I assume it would be far easier to use than a 2nd hold down clamp, as well as being safe enough, right? And if I instead got a 2nd hold down clamp, is there room in the far T slot to hold it (just beyond the far fence), or would I have to move the far fence closer to make room for it?
        2) I saw on a Hammer video their option of an optional long rail you could get to screw on to a long board to allow super long narrow rips (though the cut wouldn’t be flat to the table at the blade and might require a secured landing board on the other side). A longer table would do it better of course, it just takes more money and more space (the space is often even harder to have than the money! :-)
        3) I’m a hobbyist, so wouldn’t use it near as much as you and so would tolerate taking off the blade guard to switch blades or put in a shorter riving knife to allow non-through cuts. They do include the shorter riving knife, right? And if I use their blade guard as supplied (without any mods you did) does it rise up OK when the wood or miter fence want to force it up for a cut, or does it get stuck against them and become a major hassle? If you have to lock it in a raised position it might cancel its dust collection, right?
        4) They use a 3″ hose and attach it to a 4″ port? I wish they wouldn’t do such cheap short cuts. As far as I can tell, the Hammer seems to use a 5″ line all the way through. In your mod to a 4″ hose did you have to widen the blade shroud connector or just clamp your hose down extra tight to fit the 3″ opening?
        5) When you do a bevel cut, does the scoring knife tilt with the blade or stay fixed? Either way, does it still score accurately for all bevels up to 45, or do you have to adjust the height and left right distance for each different bevel angle?
        6) Did you consider adding a Wixey DRO on the main fence? I assume it could be done, and would want to do so if I got this saw.
        7) Is there a micro adjust on the main fence available as an option? If not, do you think the fence movement is smooth enough to easily tap to the exact amount you want if you had a Wixey DRO?

        Thanks again!

        1. Hi John,

          1) I’m not clear as to what you are asking. The hold-down can be secured anywhere along the length of the two T-slots in the sliding table and has plenty of reach to span the width of the crosscut fence. The crosscut fence can also be moved anywhere along the sliding table, although the reach of the outrigger support arm can affect the travel of the sliding table, depending on where the outrigger is clamped.

          3) The riving knife is slotted to allow vertical adjustment from a high to low position with a single wrench. The riving knife has to be tightened securely, and that prevents it from self-adjusting its height. Your question reminded me why I really took off the guard – I wanted the crosscut fence to provide full support for the work, so I made a wooden block with the same cross-section it, and fastened to the end. You can see this best in the 5th picture. This modification required me to keep the blade guard at this height or higher, which I did not like. I’m sure that having the dust collection feature of the guard farther from the source would negatively affect its performance. The stock end (UHMW or some similar white plastic) is L-shaped, to allow passage of the blade guard.

          4) I’m not an expert on air systems and do not have a clear understanding on whether a large hose that can move a lot of air is better, or a small one with high velocity.

          5) I don’t believe that the scoring blade tilts. This is a question probably best fielded by Grizzly’s technical support.

          6) I did not consider a digital readout for the fence.

          7) I do not know of a micro-adjust feature for this saw, but I feel that I am able to fine-adjust it to my liking with light taps.


        2. Hi John,

          I checked yesterday and the scoring blade does tilt with the main blade. The scoring blade is tapered (you raise or lower the blade to adjust its kerf), so it may need to be adjusted for bevel cuts. I’ve never tested this function.


  3. Thank you for taking the time to provide these in depth articles on your sliding saw and thought process in making your selection. Seeing your simple modifications to make the saw more user friendly is a great bonus. The videos are particularly helpful for those of us considering similar table saw options.

    I am also looking for a smaller sliding saw for my (non commercial) shop & really like the features of the G0623 for its price point. I am unfortunately very tight on space (12 x 19) and am also looking at the G0700 for that reason. If I could impose, Since I am not located anywhere near a Grizzly dealer I wonder if you could answer a few questions for me.

    1) Did you consider the G0700? The table capacity is not a huge concern for me (as my alternative is no sliding table!) but it seems you give up a lot of extras and considerable side support for only $200 savings (crosscut table extension, support arm, crosscut fence )

    2) Do you find the extra table length from the slider in front of the saw to be cumbersome if you have to rip something conventionally using the standard fence (say a 16′ 1×2 )

    3) due to my shop size, I envision I will have to integrate the saw into part of my work table area. If I would leave the end cap loose (or fabricate a knob for hand tightening) can the rip fence be removed & replaced easily or would it need to be readjusted for square each time?

    4) Lastly, to save a few inches, I would consider leaving off the sliding table handle. Would this also remove the only locking mechanism for the table? If so does it seam feasible to mount a cam lock somewhere on the side of the slider to be able to lock it in any position?

    Thanks again,

    1. Hi Jack,

      Although I looked at the G0700, I never really considered it because I really wanted the outrigger and large crosscut fence. Note that the powder coated steel tables are only bolted onto the cast iron table, and could be removed if not wanted, and the rip fence could be docked at any point. Of course, you would be sacrificing rip capacity.

      Having the slider extend in front of the saw when ripping long stock is not a problem at all. The slider reminds me to stand to the left of the blade, across from the sliding table.

      The fence rides on a rail which has a rotating tab at the far end which keeps the fence from sliding off of it. To remove the fence, simply turn the tab and slide it off that side, or move the sliding table all the way forward and slide it off the near side (watch out for the blade). The fence aligns itself to the rail, so as long as you’re not moving the rail, the fence should be able to be removed and reinstalled without the need for calibration. Note that you can also remove the extruded aluminum fence from the body, which frees up a good deal of table space.

      The handle at the front end of the sliding table is attached to a steel plate which is attached to the sliding extrusion. The table locking mechanism is also on that plate, so if you remove the plate, you’re losing that too. I haven’t given too much thought about making my own table lock, but I will. One thing that I miss is a load lock position, which I will detail in a future post.


      1. Thank you for the detailed response.It is great to hear directly from someone with a lot of direct experience. I really like the idea of the outrigger support & crosscut fence for panel work as well. Since the cost of adding them to the G0700 is cost prohibitive, I will have to shoehorn the G0623 in somehow! Your idea to dock the rip fence and shortening the crosscut fence look like a good place to start. Thanks again & I look forward to reading more of your blogs.


  4. Hey and thanks for the review! This was a big determining factor in me making the purchase for the saw.

    I can’t say the same for the instructions as the tiny pictures are hard to follow completely! Can you tell me where you positioned the sliding table undercarriage to the table saw? The instructions don’t tell you how far forward or back to mount the slider. With that mounted as far forward as I can get it, I can only crosscut 34 inches on mine and it supposed to crosscut 63 inches? Also when the slider is pushed through the blade the lower support arm stops at 90° and doesn’t continue all the way through if that make sense? I have left a message for support three days ago and they have yet to call me back. Any help from you would be much appreciated!

    Thank you!

    1. On my saw, the bottom half of the sliding table is positioned 21″ from the front of the saw cabinet. I don’t recall if there was a factory-set stop for that position as the Felder saws do, but I also don’t remember pondering where to set it.

      The position of the outrigger and crosscut fence play a significant factor in the crosscut capacity of the slider. Set the outrigger and crosscut fence at the very back (towards the outfeed side) and see if that helps.


      1. Thanks so much for the reply! OK, I totally did not see that the outrigger slide back and forth as well. Terrible instruction manual – but that did the trick – thanks again!

      2. Sorry, one more thing (since you must be Grizzly support – better response time;) ) The crosscut fence lock knob – I feel dumb, but I have no idea where that would go to lock the fence extension? I’ve tried it in every t-slot, but there isn’t anything for it to “push” against to lock the sliding extension? Thanks again for the help!

        1. The clamping knob that locks the angle of the crosscut fence goes between the two steel rails in the middle of the outrigger (one of which has the mitre scale on it). The mating T-nut goes in the bottom of the crosscut fence.

          I found that system slow and cumbersome to use – particularly to install or remove the crosscut fence from the saw. This is what I made to make using it easier.


  5. Hello Chris,
    I just would like to put my 2 cents in… I’ve had this saw for 3 yrs now. and i love it. Powerful, heavy, and SAFE. But there are some thing i don’t like.

    1) The miter slot on the slider is a different size and i don’t like the way its connects to the slot. All my after market gauge’s won’t work in these slots.
    2) Dust collection.. I’ll be nice and say it’s inadequate.
    3)Maybe there is something you can help me with? How do you adjust the slider to the blade from the front to the back. I put a woodpeckers digital gauge at the front and slide the table while holding the gauge next to the blade…Help my brotha! Thanks Chris.. love your work:)

    1. Hi Duke,

      I don’t see the need to use a standard mitre gauge in the sliding table. I used the provided mitre gauge for the first couple weeks, and it’s pretty much lived on my wall since then. I use the mitre slots mostly for storing pencils and rules.

      Adjusting the angle of the sliding table in relation to the blade is not something that I have had to adjust. However, there are bolts that bear against the sliding table assembly that could be used to finely adjust the table’s orientation.


  6. Chris,

    As has been said by many, this was an excellent review. I am considering this saw in a situation where its use will be infrequent and during periods of non-use, I’d like to minimize its footprint. Is it practical to remove the cross-cut table from the sliding table and simply fold in the swing-arm to reduce the amount of equipment “sticking out”? If so, is it also feasible to use the sliding table without the cross-cut table attached for small work?

    Many thanks!


    1. Hi Wally,

      It is easy to remove the outrigger (cross-cut table) from the sliding table and the arm folds neatly against the side of the saw. Without the outrigger, you are not able to use the large crosscut fence. However, you can use the included mitre gauge, or bolt on your own accessories (like a small crosscut fence) to the sliding table.


  7. Hi Chris, I build HiFi speakers, typically miter folded boxes using premium veneers pressed on 1/2″ baltic birch ply. Does this machine tilt left or right? I’m thinking it tilts left so if I wanted to use the slider for a 45 on a veneered panel the face veneer would be down towards the table. Do you have much experience with this setup? Opinions on the cut quality?

    Thanks, Scott

  8. Hi Chris,

    First of all, this was a fantastic review. You finally convinced me. I was stuck between the SawStop 3 hp model (with optional slider attachment) and this model.

    I have one question for you. My shop (my garage) is cramped. What is the footprint of this saw once everything has been folded in, that is the smallest idle state footprint I can expect.

    Many thanks in advance

    1. Hi,

      I was very disappointed when SawStop released their sliding table, as I was expecting a complete sliding table saw complete with outrigger to support larger material.

      With the outrigger removed, the saw is 4′-6″ wide. Of course, the width could be reduced by not installing the side table and cutting down the rip fence bar. The distance from front to back, when the slider is locked in place, is just over 6′-1″ as I have it installed (could be as little as 5′-10-3/4″).


  9. Wow, my thought process followed yours and after doing an internet search arrived here. Thank you for the posting the review. Do you have it on a mobile base? If so how hard would it be to move ? I may need to move it once in a while.


  10. Great job Chris! I just want to comment on those of you who are considering a sliding table saw. From the comments left here on Chris’s blog, I’ve noticed that many of you are interested in getting a sliding table saw, but are having reservations purchasing this saw because of its larger footprint. This saw is primarily designed to rip larger stock such as panels, plywood, etc. It can cut smaller stock as well, but it’s primary design is to be able to handle larger material as just stated. With that said, I believe for those of you who are working with limited shop space this saw may not be for you. I only say that based on the many comments asking if this saw can be broken down into a smaller footprint. If so, may I suggest an alternative? Grizzly has a cabinet saw called the G0690. It’s a basic cabinet saw that can be outfitted with a sliding table attachment that Grizzly sells. I think it would be perfect for those of you who are concerned about equipment footprints. The saw doesn’t have a scoring knife or outrigger table attachment with large crosscutting fence, but it has some of the benefits of a sliding table saw that many of you seem to want. The only drawback that I see is the inability to handle larger stock. The sliding table attachment for the G0690 is referred to as T10223. Grizzly also has a long rail kit for the G0690 that would allow for handling of larger materials, but that would defeat the idea of reducing the footprint of the machine. Also, bear in mind that this sliding table addition doesn’t feature the out table extension that Chris has on his slider saw. This is the table that extends beyond the blade after the cut is made. If you look at Chris’s saw, he has a lot of table there waiting to catch post cut material. With the G0690 and its sliding table attachment, there is no out table extension. Just be aware of that. You can make your own out feed table or ask if that option is available from Grizzly. Thanks for giving us your time and opinion on your sliding table saw Chris! It’s much appreciated… :-)

  11. Sorry for the typos. You just got to love auto correct. For some reason, my computer modified my using of the word “out feed” table to just out table in a couple of my sentences. Sorry for that… I think you get my point. Thanks!

  12. Are you able to crosscut and break down a full sheet of plywood on this? I’m also curious as to how you handle ripping long 23″ wide panels. What is the maximum length you can straight line rip?

    For example, if I am building a large entertainment built in and it requires 84″ long sides that are 23″ wide, can this be done on this saw WITHOUT having to rip on the right side of the blade with the full length of the fence?

    Appreciate your review and honest responses.

  13. How about a revisit after all this time. Ya know now that the blush of first love is over. Have you had the table go out of alignment. What was realigning it like the bearings in the motor and scoring unit give you any issues? How abut the Rip Fence. Are you still happy with it? What about that mobility kit? Does it cause the slider to lose alignment?

    1. Hi Raul,

      This review was done four years after getting the saw.

      I have had no real mechanical issues with it other than breaking a belt for the scoring arbor. Although the rip fence rail is aluminum, I haven’t had any issues with it. Still happy with the saw, and the size works well for my shop. The mobility kit I built for it hasn’t caused any issues.


  14. I run a small 2 man cabinet shop and have been considering an upgrade from my Jet 10″ saw with and Excaliber sliding table attachment. I was seriously thinking about the Sawstop, untill I saw your write-up. I am very interested in the same saw that you have, but I guess I’m just worried about the reliability of the saw with daily use. Any thoughts?

    1. Ted,

      Alan Halls’ comment below offers some good insights. I don’t use my saw with the frequency you will be using it. The load lock on the sliding table is a nice feature to have which is not available with this saw. Although I haven’t seen it to be an issue, I wonder about the aluminum rip fence bar.


  15. I received the saw and set it up in November of last year. I have used it extensively for building cabinets during the entire Month of December every day 10-12 hours a day and it has held up well. Power is good and is very accurate for repeating cuts. One compliant is that there is no sliding table stop, you have to lay a board in the track to keep the table from moving while loading it. And the other complaint is that I wish the table travel was just a little longer to accommodate the full length of a 4×8 sheet of plywood. I believe the larger models from Grizzly will hold larger sheets but they are more expensive and would not fit in my shop.

  16. Hi Chris,

    Hobbyist here. I stumbled onto your site while checking into this saw. Just want to say thank you for all the information and video comments. I could find very little on the saw until I found you.

    You have answered many of the questions I had about quality and use. I had a slider in the past, and now have a SawStop, but miss some of the sliders attributes, and am considering having both, and selling my Unisaw that I kept for dado work.

    Any comments on dadoing with the Griz?


  17. Hey Chris the write up was great on this saw. I’ve been looking at getting a slider instead of a SawStop as well.

    Two questions:

    How do you rip 8ft or longer stock?

    Did you look at buying a used slider instead of new one? Is the main reason you went new was most used saws are 3 phase?


    1. Hi Jesse,

      I bought the saw for making furniture, and usually crosscut to rough length before ripping. If I need to make an 8′ cut, I can use the rip fence only, or a different tool.

      Being in a small shop, I wanted a compact slider. They’re next to impossible to find used.


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